Friday, July 25, 2014

eating and shopping in morocco

Morocco is a shopper's paradise. Their artistry is superb and geometric and abstract tribal designs work very well with modern aesthetics. Although you can buy many Moroccan items in the States, nothing beats the rush you will get when getting a deal on a purchase and as a bonus it will serve as a wonderful reminder of your time in Morocco. And their food isn't half bad either.

Shopping
  • Leather slippers aka babouches. Still commonly worn by locals, these unique and portable items make excellent souvenirs.  They come in a variety of colors and are super soft- especially when made from goat or camel skin. Sazy Rock and I had a wonderful mini-adventure with a cobbler in Marrakesh who insisted we come up to his attic workshop - not advisable for a solo traveler!- while he custom-made several pairs of infant slippers while we watched. 60-200MAD.
  • Blue ceramics. Decorative plates or tiles; be sure to have the fragile goods properly wrapped for transport back home. 
  • Leather poufs. Moroccan poufs or ottomans are very popular in home decorations and can be purchased for a fraction of the cost compare to back in the States. 200-1000MAD.
  • Carpet/Rug. Carpet or rug buying can be tricky business. There are so many styles and price points that it may be difficult to comparison shop. First, it may help to narrow what you want by size, weight, color and design. Prayer rugs, typical size 4" x 6", are a good size for transport back home in your luggage and a well made one can be had for 2000-3000MAD. Most carpets you'll encounter will be a type of Berber kilim which are flat-woven with geometric or abstract designs. However, keep an eye out for the shaggy Ben Ourain rugs with very simplified geometric designs; they are very hot in home decorations now. Unless you are familiar with carpets or price is no object, stay away from "antiques." Some other tips: tightwoven knots indicate better quality; so does use of intricate design and varied lustrous colors; and bottom side should look similar in finish as top side.

  • Argan Oil. Most argan oil sold in the west is diluted. Pure oil can be used on your face and hair. Look for cloudy consistency in the bottom of bottle; foul or sweet smell may indicate chemicals or its use as cooking oil; price shouldn't be too low (150 MAD for 30ml ok).
  • Jeweler who sold jewelry to Sarah Jessica Parker when she was shooting Sex and the City 3 in Marrakesh.
  • Jewelry. Tribal Berber metal work mixed with chunky unpolished semi-precious stones are hallmarks of Moroccan jewelry. They make excellent gifts. Be aware of "Berber silver," which is cheap plated silver. You can test the metal by using a magnet (silver is not magnetic).
    • Woodworks. Marquetry (decorative patterns formed by applying veneer) can be seen in furniture. Since shipping a chair may be difficult, you may want to settle for a decorated box as a souvenir.

    Tips: Bargain, bargain, bargain. I found prices cheaper and qualities superior in Fes compared to Marrakesh. In Fes, vendors quoted starting price at 30-50% higher vs. Marrakesh where they quoted prices 80-200% higher than the final price. You are expected to haggle but don't be rude about the process. Be firm on what you consider to be your bottom line fair price and if you cannot reach it, be prepared to say thank you and walk away. Remember, you are on holiday and enjoy the process and don't let the stress of bargaining ruin the experience. Exchange rate is approximately $1=8MAD.

    Eating
    Served in tajine, coucous and chicken covered with vegetables
    • Chicken Tajine. Chicken with vegetables slow cooked in a tajine, a conical earthenware.
    • Couscous. Often confused with chicken tajine, it is served but not cooked in a tajine. Takes several hours to prepare and thus usually requires to be pre-ordered. Typically it has a meat (chicken or lamb), seven types of vegetables and, of course, couscous (semolina- tiny pearl pasta made of wheat dough).

    • Mint tea aka Berber whiskey aka tea a la menthe. Very sugary and unavoidable refreshment  often served for free by vendors and restaurants.
    • Harira Thick lentil soup made typically from lamb stock.
    • Tangerines. Moroccans love their tangerines and there are plenty of trees bearing this delicious fruit. Often served with mint tea, it's extremely affordable (6 for 2MAD!) and very sweet.
    • Kefta. Best Moroccan street food "sandwich" I tasted consisted of a pita like bread pocket stuffed with grilled vegetables and brochettes of kefta (seasoned mince lamb or meat) and merguez (spicy lamb) sausages for 20MAD.
    • Pastilla. Meat pie typically filled with chicken or pigeon and almond, wrapped in phyllo like dough, and dusted with powder sugar and cinnamon. Substantial enough to be the main course meal. Try it in Fes. 40-60MAD.
    • Breakfast pastries. Perhaps it's the French influence but they have some excellent pastries in Morocco, including but not limited to: sfenj (flaky round doughnut); khobz (flatbread); harsha (pan-fried buttery bread that tastes like cornbread); beghrir (spongy pancake); rghaif (pan-fried flaky pancake); and chocolate croissant. Extremely affordable (few MAD) and easy to find in local bakeries. Often served with honey, jam, butter and The Laughing Cow cheese.
    9 types of pastries served (and eaten) very morning in Fes


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