survival tips for djemaa el-fna, marrakesh

The heart of Marrakesh is the (in)famous Djemaa el-Fna, a large open public square that takes a life of its own when the sun goes down.

Djemaa el-Fna alive with lights, sounds and smell.

Food Stalls

Good rule of thumb is to eat where the crowd eats at, especially the local crowd. Although the square is very touristy, many local Moroccans also come to partake in the excellent and cheap food offerings here. I recommend:

# 94 is filled with local men,
we got some raised eyebrows when we squeezed in

stall #98

• Stall 98-known for their fried fish, tomato salsa and mashed eggplant (similar to baba ganoush).
• Stall 94- known for their fantastic egg and potatoes sandwich, approximately 10 MAD.
• Fresh squeezed orange juice. Make sure you see the vendor squeeze it fresh and not pour out of a container. 6 MAD.
• Snail soup -they are not as weird as they sound; to eat fish out the snails with a toothpick, drink the soup at your own risk. 10 MAD.
• Sweets

  

  bowl of snails and cup of oj

Tips- Order fried foods and don't eat anything "fresh" unless it's orange juice. Wash your hands with sanitary wipes. Have some medicine for upset stomach on hand just in case. Menu and price are posted on each stall and an excellent cheap meal can be had for 30-60 MAD. Exchange rate is approximately $1US=8 MAD.

Entertainment

There are traditional musicians, belly dancers, story tellers, snake charmers and monkey wranglers to name some of the unique offerings of the square. Just taking in the general sights and sounds is an overwhelming experience in itself. However, be ready to pay if you want to get close to any entertainment or take pictures.

Shopping

On the norther section of the square, vendors set up spots with numbers selling Moroccan knick-knacks like savon noir (black soap for hammam). Prices are comparable to those found deep inside the souqs and are convenient for last minute souvenir purchases.

Tips- There are plenty of ATMs with security guards surrounding the square. Many vendors take Euros and Dollars but it is best to bargain in MAD. Be sure to spend your MAD in Morocco; MAD is a closed currency and cannot be exchanged outside the country.

Etiquette:

tourists paying up for picture taking

• Don't take pictures of the costumed vendors especially snake charmers and monkey wranglers unless you've asked for permission and paid. Otherwise, they will hunt you down and not let you leave until you pay.
• Don't make eye contact with vendors you don't want to do business with. Whether it is a henna tattoo artist or food vendor, they feel no qualm in physically grabbing tourists and dragging them to their stall (which happened to me on multiple occasions). It helps to walk purposefully and politely but firmly to say no.
• Watch out for pickpockets and guard your person and possessions closely. Although there's a high police presence, you want to act with due caution.