getting to know the usa: new orleans

Fleur de lys, a New Orleans symbol.

During my last visit to New Orleans last month, Mr. Sazy Rock introduced me to a local chef and his wife who taught me the proper way of saying "New Orleans." They said it is not pronounced "N'AW-lins" or "New Or-LEENS." Instead, it is pronounced, "New OR-Lens." Whichever you say it (including "NOLA," the acronym for New Orleans, Louisiana), I suspect you will have a great time there.

I have been visiting New Orleans since 2000, when I attended my first JazzFest. I fell in love with the music, the booze and the food. So, I kept coming back. During the aughties, for half that decade, I blocked off my late April or early May for a trip to NOLA. 

This decade, I started going to Tales of the Cocktail, where many of the world's best bartenders and spirit makers converge in the city to learn about cocktail making and, of course, imbibe. I have never seen so many men with facial hair wearing button down shirts with the long sleeves folded just above the elbow to display an armful of tattoos, pants supported by suspenders and heads covered by fedoras. 

This year, I decided to visit New Orleans outside of these events. And, let me tell you, I still had a blast. This recent visit just proved to me that no matter what time of year I visit, New Orleans rocks!

Despite having visited New Orleans many times, I am still getting to know it. Each visit has given me new insights to this beautiful and dynamic city. So, what have I learned so far in getting to know New Orleans?


The Sights


Although I primarily visit New Orleans to eat and drink, I learned that there are lots of sights to see.

1. The French Quarter - Walking around the quarter has never gotten old, and it never cost me a penny. I have always enjoyed looking at the beautiful architecture. I have also always found joy and wonder in the free and age old sport of people watching. On my most recent visit, I saw a lady walking around with a live rabbit on her shoulder and another lady wearing a fake animal tail that matched the one on her real dog she had on a leash. And, they did not appear to be street performers.

Architecture in the French Quarter.

2. Jackson Square and the St. Louis Cathedral - Formerly called the Place d'Armes when the French occupied the area, and later renamed for President Andrew Jackson, the square is located in front of the St. Louis Cathedral, which is the oldest cathedral in continual use in North America.

Jackson Square and the Cathedral on a rainy May day.

3. Louis Armstrong Park/Congo Square - I have found this park to be the perfect spot on non-humid days. For me, the ponds, art installations honoring jazz musicians, and other open spaces seemed perfect for relaxing. The park also has a historic spot in Congo Square, where slaves used to gather and play music. And, it's free to visit.

One of the Art Installations at Louis Armstrong Park.

4. Southern Food and Beverage Museum and Museum of the American Cocktail - These museums share a space so it is easy to learn about food and booze all in one space. The museums have exhibits on food and booze, and host classes and events.

The Southern Food and Beverage Museum.

5. Marker for Plessy v. Ferguson - A plaque at the corner of Press and Royal Streets in the Marigny/Bywater area marks the place where a "colored" guy named Plessy was arrested when he sat in a "whites only" train car and refused to move to a "colored only" train car in the late 1800s. The case went all the way to the US Supreme Court, which, at the time, upheld the doctrine that although different races may be kept separate, they were still "equal." For legal nerds like me, this area marks a dark chapter in American jurisprudence. Thank goodness that the Supreme Court overturned Plessy v. Ferguson in a later case involving segregated schools. 

The Plessy v. Ferguson marker.

6. Swamp/Ghost/Cemetery Tours - Whatever floats your boat, there are plenty of tours to choose from. I once did a swamp tour and got to feed alligators with marshmallows. I think Dentite once did a cemetery tour.

An alligator during my swamp tour.

The Bars

Through many visits, I learned many things about New Orleans' drinking scene.

Bourbon Street has a lot of bars. I spent many hours at the bars on Bourbon Street in my younger days. I probably also ended up drinking a ton of sugar that were in the ubiquitous hurricane and hand grenade drinks most often served in those bars. While a first timer to New Orleans should check out Bourbon Street at least once, there are so much more watering holes in this fair city.

Frenchmen Street has a lot of bars with live bands. I suggest a visit to these establishments.

For high quality and tasty cocktails, I recommend a visit to the places I listed here.

Through my visits, I learned that many drinks were invented in this city. They include:
1. the Sazerac, the official drink of New Orleans.
2. the Ramos Gin Fizz, a creamy shaken gin drink with egg whites. I suggest drinking it at the Roosevelt Hotel, which (along with a former Louisiana governor) helped popularized the drink. 
3. the Vieux Carre, which was invented at the Hotel Monteleone.
4. the Hurricane, which was invented at Pat O'Brien's.

So, if you are in town, enjoy these classic New Orleans cocktails.

The Food


I love eating in NOLA. Even the tourist places serve delicious food. That being said, I learned that it is still possible to eat badly here. But, a bad restaurant has to work really hard to serve bad food. 

During this year's visit, I learned new things about the city's culinary history when I joined a tour hosted by the New Orleans Culinary History Tours. Although I have scarfed down many gumbos, jambalayas, remoulades, muffulettas, po' boys etc., I found the history of these cuisines fascinating. As an added plus, the tour allowed us to go check out many of the historical aspects of Arnaud's and Antoine's. For instance, during the tour, I saw one of the first Edison light bulbs on display at Antoine's. I also saw a bar at Arnaud's that dated back to Prohibition. 

Even before I went on a culinary history tour, through the years, I found it interesting that so many dishes originated in New Orleans. These are the ones I am aware of:

Bananas Foster served table side at Brennan's.

1. Banana's Foster, a dessert made with (surprise) bananas was invented at Brennan's and I love that they prepare it table side.

2. Muffuletta, a sandwich with Sicilian roots made of ham, salami and olive salad dressing on a flat round bread, was invented at Central Grocery.

3. Oysters Rockefeller, oysters broiled on the half shell with bechamel sauce and spinach, was invented at Antoine's.

In addition to the dishes invented in New Orleans, these are some of my favorite restaurants (not necessarily in any order of preference):

1.  Fried chicken - please read my post on my top fried chicken restaurants here.

2.  Galatoire's - A fancy restaurant with a dress code, the food was good but the brabant potatoes were exceptional. They had a nice crunch on the outside but all fluffiness inside.

3.  Maurepas Foods - Last time I dined there, the goat tacos dish and the soft shell crab dish were worth the long walk from the French Quarter to Bywater.

Goat Tacos at Maurepas Foods.

4.  Cochon - I've enjoyed swine and non-swine related dishes here. The bartenders have also never failed to make me a tasty sazerac. 

5.  Jacques-Imo's - Shrimp and alligator sausage cheesecake. Need I say more? They don't take reservations unless you go with a big group. Find plenty of friends to dine with immediately!

Shrimp and Alligator Sausage Cheesecake at Jacques-Imo's.

6.  Arnaud's - I enjoyed the turtle soup there plus, they served crepe suzettes table side.  

7.  Petite Grocery - The crab beignets here were puffy and crunchy outside and creamy inside. Oh my.

Crab Beignets at Petite Grocery. 

8.  Upperline - On my last visit, I particularly liked the slow roasted half duck with garlic sauce, and the fried green tomatoes with shrimp in a garlic sauce they called "muddy water." In addition to the delicious food, JoAnn Clevenger, the owner and host, was so warm and welcoming that, after dinner, I felt like I just found a new family member.  

Fried Green Tomatoes at Upperline.

9.  August - A fine dining place with dishes executed very well.

Trio of Foie Gras at August.

10.  Verti Marte - So many sandwiches, so little time. I recently enjoyed a hot sausage sandwich there. Mmmmmm...

Hot Sausage at Verti Marte.

11.  Cafe Du Monde - Beignets, beignets, beignets.

Beignets at Cafe du Monde.

12.  District Donuts - A plain glazed doughnut I tasted was so light and fluffy. The stuffed donuts (a pumpkin cheesecake one and a pistachio one) were full of flavor and a bit heavier, they were all encased in light dough. I also tasted a special biscuit with barbecue shrimp. Not only was that dish pretty but the biscuit was buttery and flaky, and the shrimps were perfectly seasoned. So delicious.

Pistachio Doughnut and Pumpkin Cheesecake Doughnut
at District Donuts.

A special menu item: Biscuit and Barbecue Shrimp at District Donuts.

Hopefully, the lessons I've learned in getting to know New Orleans will assist you in your travels. For me, I suspect that I will keep on trying to get to know this city for many more years to come. I just love geaux-ing there. (See what I did there?)

Have you visited New Orleans? What are your favorites in NOLA?

Other posts in my "Getting to Know the USA" series, include Kansas City, Charleston, Greenville, Idaho Falls and Philadelphia.