restaurant review: azurmendi

I can't say I'm a food critic, because I'm not.  But, I like to eat... a lot.

On a recent trip to Bilbao, Spain, the hubster's friend suggested that we check out a restaurant called, Azurmendi, just 30 minutes outside the city in a town called Larrabetzu. It has three stars from the Michelin Guide. About a month or so after we dined there, the 2014 San Pellegrino's 50 Best Restaurants in the World list came out and identified it as the 26th best restaurant.  Now, I don't know whether that's true but this is what I know: Chef Eneko Atxa knows what he's doing.

The scene

The Azurmendi Greenhouse
where we tasted pumpkin seeds.

Azurmendi has two restaurant buildings: one perched on a hill and one below. They use the bottom restaurant for special events and casual dining, and the top restaurant for fine dining. The top restaurant is very modern with floor to ceiling windows so you can view verdant hills... and a freeway. Multi-lingual staff members immediately greeted us when we entered the restaurant. The waiting area (or garden) has a high ceiling with a lot of plants, a tree and a fountain.  We could see the kitchen from there.  We were told that if the restaurant was not busy, they regularly took diners on a tour of the greenhouse above the restaurant where they grew a lot of their produce.

The greenhouse

I apparently went when it was not busy because I went on a greenhouse
tour where we immediately started eating. They showed us many plants they used for cooking including carrots, tomatoes, etc.  We tasted a carrot that was so fresh and sweet.  We tasted many other things, among them, something that looked like an avocado pit but was actually a refashioned edible pit bursting with flavors of avocado and a bit of lime. 

The service captain showing
us around the kitchen.

The kitchen

I don't know whether other diners usually toured the kitchen because I did not notice them in there. I was able to do so (it could have been because all other diners were given a tour or maybe because the hubs was introduced to the Chef by their mutual friend). The kitchen was spotless. It was also eerily quiet and the kitchen staff moved effortlessly.  There was absolutely no Gordon Ramsay-esque shouting inside or even loud clanging of pots and pans.  I suspect it had to do with the Chef's personality - quiet and humble.

The picnic basket containing
bread and jam, and anchovies.

The food

After the greenhouse tour, we were ushered back to the waiting area where they served us small bites served in a picnic basket with a glass of white wine. Our basket included some anchovies and balls of bread with jam inside. It was a perfect way to whet the appetite.

Once seated at the table in the main dining room (where you can also see the kitchen), we were asked to choose one of two tasting menus.  When we said we wanted to try some things from the other menu, they happily obliged.  (They didn't say, "No substitution!" -- I am looking at you, certain restaurants in LA.)  They served 12 savory dishes and all of them worked.  But, I definitely had favorites that, to this day, I still dream about eating.

The menus.

I enjoyed an egg dish infused with black truffles.  Just imagine that you poached an egg, except that instead of having just yolk inside, you also get bits of black truffles.  I don't know how they did it but I'm glad they did.  It was like eating a semi soft boiled yolk with earthiness that exploded in your mouth.

I also loved the roasted lobster dish.  Sometimes, chefs forget that a simple preparation of a dish is heaven enough.  Azurmendi's version was simply roasted, pretty and heavenly.  On top of the big piece of lobster were smaller pieces of lobster wrapped in a seaweed.  It was a lovester-fest.  (Yeah, I know. The hubs just rolled his eyes at me.)

Egg infused with truffles.

Little cubes of suckling pig roasted in its own fat had a nice crunchy  texture outside and tender meat inside.  The pumpkin sauce tempered the richness of the pig and it made for a good combination.

A foie gras dish with "ashes" of foie gras on top was also delicious. Just imagine a tablespoonful of the creamy and rich dish melting in your mouth and tickling your taste buds. I didn't want it to stop.

There were desserts - lots of them - that were tasty but the savory dishes stole the show. 

The service

The staff were attentive and efficient.  They were friendly but not informal.  

Roasted lobster.

The price

It is not cheap, especially if you order a bottle (or two) of wine. But, it is reasonable compared to other three star Michelin restaurants in the US. I think we spent more at French Laundry in Yountville and Per Se in New York than at Azurmendi.  

How to get a table 

The easiest way to get a table, especially on short notice, is to reserve a time around lunch. When we went, there were plenty of tables available.  I don't know whether that will change now that it has been identified as the 26th "best restaurant" by San Pellegrino.

Suckling pig confit.

How will my experience differ from yours

You'll likely eat the same delicious and beautiful dishes (depending on the season), get the same excellent service, and pay the same relatively reasonable price.  And you'll also likely have the same access to toothbrushes (all new and individually wrapped) in the restroom, should you wish to cleanse your palette.

Azurmendi is a special place and I hope you will try it during your travels.