queenstown, new zealand for the non-thrill seeker

Queenstown has a reputation for hosting people who jump off stuff and do other crazy things. The reputation is well deserved. After all, commercial bungee and commercial jet boating started in this fair town. It somehow also seems appropriate that the beautiful mountain range towering over Queenstown is called “the Remarkables,” and another mountain nearby is called “Mount Difficulty.”

I first went to Queenstown with the idea of jumping off a bridge. I’ve previously jumped off a plane in Oxnard, California, and glided off a cliff in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. So, I thought jumping jump off a bridge wouldn't be that different. Unfortunately, the weather, my nerves or both (more likely, nerves) stopped me from doing something that would have been the basis of an awesome Facebook/Twitter profile photo (or at least something I could have put on Instagram).

Left without an extreme sport to partake in, was there anything else to do in Queenstown?  Absolutely.  For those who are not so extreme sports inclined, there are other un-extreme types of adventures and thrills to be had in and around town like the following:

The thrill of walking:

Queenstown is a beautiful alpine town. The mountains and lakes nearby make it ideal for walking. Given that the country’s population is only approximately 4.5 million people and only approximately 1 million live in the entire South Island, there is hardly any pollution in Queenstown (and the rest of the South Island). So if you want to expand your lungs, walking in and around Queenstown is definitely safe and good for you no matter your age. You can choose a higher altitude hike or you can take a flat walk along the lake. You can also use the town as a base for hiking three of the “Great Walks” of New Zealand (Milford Track, Routeburn Track and Kepler Track), which are approximately two and a half hours away. You can do a day trip or a multi-day hike. You can also have the option of hiking the Great Walks independently (where you carry your own food and cook your own meals while staying in huts that may not have hot showers) or with a guide (where you stay in lodges that serve decent food paired with perfectly drinkable wines and offer hot showers).

One of many waterwalls to be seen on the Milford Track.

Personally, I tramped (Kiwis call “hiking” tramping) the Milford Track, which has been called one of the “finest walks in the world,” with a guide. There was nothing better than walking for a whole day, taking a hot shower afterwards and drinking wine to soothe my 40 something year old joints. In addition, tramping the Milford Track felt like I was in Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings movie set for Rivendell. It seemed like I was always within view of a waterfall during the entire 33.5 mile trail. The streams and rivers were crystal clear. But even more exciting was breathing true fresh air -- you know, air that smelled clean and crisp and actually gave you energy. My lungs were definitely thrilled by that walk.

The thrill of eating:

The whitebait duo at Amisfield Bistro.

Queenstown may not be known for its culinary offerings but it certainly tries. One of my favorite restaurants in the South Island is Amisfield, a 20 minute drive from Queenstown. Not only do they have delicious wines, but also fantastic food. A friend once recommended Amisfield to me by mentioning a lamb dish, which plate she licked clean. When I went, I did not have the opportunity to have the same lamb dish (other than the lamb sausage, the menu did not include my friend’s favorite lamb dish) but they offered a plate licking worthy whitebait duo (one was prepared fried and the other marinated in locally grown extra virgin olive oil) and the duck confit that pulled apart at the touch of a fork. 

Beautiful scallops and the roes from
Botswana Butchery/

A runner up to Amisfield is Botswana Butchery on Queenstown’s waterfront. The menu’s seafood, lamb, beef, venison and other offerings are certainly diverse. But let me take a moment to discuss their scallop dish. It was certainly thrilling to eat scallop roe, which I have encountered in almost every other country but not in the U.S. The beautiful orange color and indulgent flavor of the roe did not disappoint.

A Fergburger - seriously, that's as big
as a toddler's face.

Finally, a favorite frequented by locals and visitors alike appears to be Fergburger, which offers a massive selection of burgers that are as big as a child’s face. The lines are perpetually long but if you time it correctly (think brunch), you’ll be likely to grab a seat and eat your burger in a civilized manner. I can’t say I am a fan but that burger joint has lots of them including a hipster looking panhandler asking for coin to pay for a Fergburger.

The thrill of drinking wine:

For wine lovers who might get a thrill in sampling wines from the southernmost wine growing region in the world, Queenstown is the perfect base. The town is approximately one hour or so from Central Otago. At 45 degrees latitude south of the equator, a cool climate, and beautiful scenery, Central Otago produces some wonderful wines that professional and amateur winos will enjoy. While Pinot Noirs are this region’s specialty, Central Otago winemakers also make tasty Dry Rieslings and Pinot Gris.

Central Otago, New Zealand.

Of the wineries I visited, Amisfield had the best offering of Dry Rieslings, which were crisp and minerally. Amisfield’s 2009 Pinot Noirs also had elegance and more complexity than their later harvests. If you are into William and Kate (you know, that William and Kate), they apparently also enjoyed Amisfield’s wines.

I also liked the wines offered by other wineries, top among them were Aurum and Bald Hills. Visitors from other countries may have an easier time of enjoying wines from Central Otago in their homeland. For Americans, wines from this region are harder to come by. So, if you are American, in Queenstown, and love wines, be sure to partake in this region’s libation specialty so you won’t miss out on what other countries have been enjoying for quite some time. (Also, as a lawyer, I have to say that you need to drink responsibly.)

In exploring Central Otago, I used the services of Pinot Thyme WineTours. The owner was an amateur wine producer and very knowledgeable about wines and the region.

If drinking exceptionally good wines in a region with clear flowing river running through a verdant valley does not thrill the average wine drinker, I do not know what will.

The thrill of doing nothing:

Sunset over the Remarkables mountain range

Queenstown may be the place to do something crazy. And sometimes, “crazy” might mean doing nothing. It is very easy to sit down by the waterfront, relax and watch: people, boats, waves crashing on the retaining wall, the sunset, the mountains and any other thing that attracts your eye. I frequently found myself just staring at the changing cloud patterns painted with vibrant colors from the sun setting over the Remarkables mountain range. It was difficult to have to pack my bags and move on to the next town. Hopefully, the pictures in this blog post will inspire you to take a break, visit Queenstown and experience the thrill of doing nothing.