day 9 in tokyo: searching for hakuhodo brushes, shopping on omotesando, tea at aoyama flower market and discovering harajuku gyoza lou

(Tokyo, Japan).  After multiple days on the go, I was looking forward to a day of leisure with no real plans other than buying some souvenirs.  We slept in and had a lovely breakfast at the Westin Hotel buffet.  After last night's kobe beef meal, I needed to be "healthier" and have some green juice.  But good intentions quickly flew out of the window when I got sidetracked by the mini french toast ... so tasty!

Someone told us these parades/festivals are quite common in Tokyo.

I had planned to nap after breakfast but unfortunately the housekeeper was cleaning our room so we decided to go out for a quick stroll around the hotel in the Ebisu area.  We ran into some sort of celebration or festival - there was lots of praying, drumming, chanting, etc.  Very cool even though we didn't understand what was happening.  During our stroll, my husband said he wanted to visit the Yamazaki Whiskey distillery when we get into Kyoto, but as usual he forgot that reservations were required.  Fortunately our concierge was able to get us in.  (Tip - if anyone wants to visit the Yamazaki Whiskey distillery in Kyoto - remember to make reservations or you won't get to do the tour.)

 

So how did I miss this sign more than 10 times???

Since we had free time today, I decided to continue my search for hakuhodo makeup brushes.  I had thought they would be very easy to find since they are relatively famous brushes - however, I struck out at almost every department store.  I had heard they had a flagship shop near Omotesando so I set out in search.  Oddly enough my husband said he would accompany me - which turned out to be a good thing since it took me over an hour to find it based on the faulty directions I received.  At least we were lost together.  Several lovely Japanese people tried to help me, but to no avail.  I did ultimately find it and realized that I literally passed the shop (which was on the 3rd floor) 10 times!  During our run-around, I noticed a lot of New York / California eateries opening up in the area - Clinton St. Bakery (from New York), Blue Bottle Coffee (from Oakland, CA), Luke's Lobster Rolls (from New York), etc.  It's crazy how global everything is becoming.  Later on I heard Shake Shack was also opening up in Tokyo!

 

Blue Bottle in Tokyo!

But I digress... back at the Hakuhodo shop - when the elevator doors opened, we entered into a clean, pristine shop of white.  Everything was minimal - almost like a gallery - and the only things on display were makeup brushes.  The shop clerks were very helpful and spoke a little bit of English, but they were clearly nervous as I - once again - stomped around like a bulldog in a porcelain shop.  I ended up buying three brushes - they were really soft and well made.  In fact they are all handmade with the utmost skill.  However, they are kind of expensive and there's really no need to buy such expensive brushes.  It's not like I end up looking like Jessica Alba because of these brushes.  But regardless, I am really glad I got them, and everytime I use them, I remember my visit to Tokyo. 

Feeling very victorious we headed to the main Omotesando Street where there was a good mix of highend-luxury and boutique souvenir shops.  My poor husband had had enough of shopping just from my makeup brush adventure so he decided to head out to look for some other museums and/or antique book stores.  One of our tour guides had recommended Oriental Bazaar on Omotesando for quality Japanese souvenirs, so I headed over there first.  I'm so glad I took his advice - the items here were beautiful.  There were ceramics, silk purses, kimonos, stationery, towels, fans - all lovely and well-made.   After a big purchase, I decided to just take my time enjoying the cool window displays etc.  I was quite tempted by the Commes des Garcon T-shirts (which are a lot cheaper in Japan), but alas, I restrained myself. 

I was feeling rather exhausted again and I had read about a lovely flower and tea shop called Aoyama Flower Market.  I had seen it earlier when I was walking around and noticed a line to get into the cafe, but fortunately when I headed back over the line was gone.  The cafe is hidden inside the flower shop and it's absolutely lovely.  I ordered a tea and dessert set (rose jelly) and happily relaxed there for a bit while waiting for my husband. 

 

Totally adorable!

So pretty and yummy!

He arrived an hour later after purchasing a beautiful antique print.  It was so carefully wrapped and sealed that I didn't get to see it until we returned to the U.S. a week later.  After discussing our options, we decided to stay in the area and explore some more and pick a random place for dinner.  I went onto yelp and found a restaurant called Harajuku Gyoza Lou which seemed perfect for what we were looking for.  And in fact it was!  What a splendid find - we absolutely loved it!  (See review here)

 

I wish I could have gone on eating forever...

Anyways as we headed towards the restaurant we found more amazing boutiques and my husband got lured by the siren call of the Burton store.  I knew he would take forever there so I left him to check out the vintage shops nearby.  If I had known there were so many treasures in Japanese vintage stores, I would have done this earlier in my trip.  Now, aware and wary of the diminishing space in our luggage, I couldn't justify buying much more...  So I controlled myself and went back to find my husband, but he was still awash in a sea of indecision.  I left again to explore some more but I told him I didn't want to keep going in and out of the store because in Japan - the shop clerk have to bow to you when you enter and exit the shop.  I didn't want to be the jerk who kept going in and out repeatedly .. not that they care, but I felt very weird about it.

 

Fabulous vintage shop.

Finally my husband called me and said he was done, but he needed my passport for the tax free benefit.  I returned to the shop and sheepishly went past the bowing clerks again.  My husband insisted he had to buy new snowboots and a backpack because these were the "newest" things and they were not available in the U.S.  This coming from a man with at least 3 pairs of snowboots and 15 backpacks at home.  But who was I to deprive him of his joy?

Fed and happy, we returned to our hotel ... and yes, we had more snacks.

 

These were quite spicy .. and no, they did not go well with red wine.

Tomorrow was our last full day in Tokyo.  I can't believe we've already been traveling for 9 days!  And each day I find something new to love about Japan! 

Omotesando in the sunset - so pretty!

traveling the baltics with ecolines

How easy is it to travel around the Baltics? Very.

A comfortable journey.

Obviously, one can fly between the main hubs (e.g., Vilnius to Tallinn). Although that is a quicker way to travel, a cheaper but still comfortable way to go is via bus. Ecolines is a company that provides seamless travel in the Baltics region. 

a day of art and food in downtown los angeles (moca, pompeii, kazunori sushi and grand central market)

(Los Angeles, CA).  I recently had the most lovely Saturday with my husband in Downtown Los Angeles.  We wanted to see the Andy Warhol "Shadows" exhibit at the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and the Pompeii exhibit at the California Science Center.  Since both exhibits were located in DTLA, we decided to squeeze in both exhibits in one day (and get some tasty grub while we were at it)!  

day trip to ravello along the amalfi coast

(Ravello, Italy).  During our drive through the Amalfi Coast, we spent some quality time at the charming hilltop village of Ravello*.  It is home to a lovely pedestrian town (no cars allowed in the village proper, except for exempt vehicles) with quaint shopping (gorgeous ceramics and art) and delicious local restaurants.  It is perhaps most famous for hosting a classical music festival in the summer and Villa Cimbrone* and Villa Rufolo - which were previously private residences but have been converted into tourist attractions to showcase their amazing views.  Villa Cimbrone is actually a hotel now, but its beautiful gardens are available to non-hotel guests for a small fee (around 7 euros per person).

Our driver dropped us off at the beginning of the pedestrian section of the village and we wandered into Ravello on foot.  Like most other charming Italian villages, Ravello looks like a postcard.  There is a main square with a Duomo, flanked by restaurants with outdoor patios and shops.  It's a pretty small square so you can easily and quickly walk around the entire area.  

quick trip to pompeii

In the Forum area.  That's Mt. Vesuvius in the background.

(Pompeii, Italy). Ever since I was a child, I beheld Pompeii with great wonder even though I couldn't fully comprehend the archaeological and historical value of the site.  I think it was probably because I was mesmerized by Roman and Greek mythology and imagined that Pompeii somehow represented all of that mysticism and magic.  (I'm also a big Dr. Who and sci-fi/fantasy fan, so I've probably watched every silly show that was set in Pompeii.)

sorrento - highlights, tips and recommendations

A view of Mt. Vesuvius from Sorrento.

(Sorrento, Italy).  After the hectic sightseeing, shopping and eating in Rome, Florence and Bologna, Sorrento was a nice change of pace for us.  While it is still touristy, it does feel more like a quaint beach town, and we were definitely ready for some relaxation!

What were some highlights of Sorrento for us?

day trip to venice

A romantic gondola - no, we didn't go on it....

(Venice, Italy).  During our stay in Bologna, we took a day trip to Venice.  It was actually quite easy to take a train from Bologna to Venice (about a one and a half hour trip), and it was entertaining to watch the scenery shift from farms and countryside to water and boats.  I really wanted my husband to see the beauty of Venice with his own eyes but I knew he would not want to spend more than a day there because he can't stand crowds and Venice can be like one big mob scene, especially during high season.

bologna - highlights, tips and recommendations

(Bologna, Italy).  I'm embarrassed to admit that the only thing I was really interested in doing in Bologna was eating.   Even though I read Frommer's Guide on Bologna which described it as "a big, working city of one million inhabitants" and "home to the world's oldest continually operating university" - none of that information seemed to enter my head at all.  Instead, my head was filled with thoughts of gelato and tortellini.

day trip to siena, italy

(Siena, Italy).  We were excited to take a day trip to Siena.  We didn't know much about the city other than that it was a medieval city built atop a hill.  I was told that the Duomo* in Siena was one of the most beautiful in Italy and also, that they have horse races in the Piazza del Campo* during the Palio.  We missed the race (which had just happened a few days before our arrival), but I'm guessing it would have been a madhouse.

greve in chianti - highlights, tips and recommendations

(Greve in Chianti).  

Day One

After the whirlwind of activities (and walking) all over Rome and Florence, we were ready to dial it down and relax!  The drive into Greve in Chianti was pretty easy and quick, and we were glad to arrive at the peaceful and beautiful surroundings of our hotel - the Castello di Vicchiomaggio* (review will be up tomorrow).  

florence - highlights, tips & recommendations

After several hectic, but fun, days in Rome, we hopped on a train for Florence.  The ride was comfortable and fast (about 1 ½ hours) and before I could even take a nap, we had arrived.  I have to admit that I’ve always preferred Florence over Rome.  I think it’s such a beautiful, charming place – not to mention the amazing artwork, history and food!  I’ve yet to have a bad meal in Florence.

So what did we end up doing (and eating)?

rome - highlights, tips and recommendations

Vittorio Emanuele II Monument.

(Rome, Italy).   My husband and I spent three lovely days in the bustling city of Rome recently.  It was his first time in the city (as well as his first time in Italy) so I did my best to play "tour guide" for him.  He wanted to see all the touristy sites and I wanted him to enjoy the wonderful food and wines of Italy so we had a lot to pack in!

So what did we end up doing?

review: what was business class on alitalia like?

I had never flown on Alitalia before.  And I’ve never paid for business class seats on my own dime before (ouch).  Unfortunately we didn’t have sufficient miles or points for the tickets.  However, since this was for our honeymoon, my husband and I agreed to splurge.

Was it worth the hefty price tag?

what is the international terminal of lax like now?

It has been a long while since I've flown out of the International Terminal (Tom Bradley) at LAX.  I knew it had been renovated so I was curious to see what it was like now.  (Mainly I wanted to see what restaurants/bars where available, since the original terminal was pretty abysmal.)

So, what is there now?

what martinikitty liked and disliked about buenos aires

One of thousands of angel statues at Recoleta Cemetery.

(Buenos Aires, Argentina).  We traveled to Buenos Aires (BA) after a week in Rio and I have to admit I felt a little bit of relief to get to a place with, in my opinion, better food, wine and art.  The BA airport was very contemporary and large, and was what I had imagined that the airport in a major city would be like (very unlike the airport in Rio which had two little kiosks selling bad coffee and stale sandwiches).  It also helped that we stayed in the Palermo Soho area which was a cozy and hip neighborhood - similar to Greenwich Village.and our boutique hotel - Mira Vida Soho Hotel - was basically like our own wine bar and daily sanctuary.  (Note: I would definitely recommend this hotel, but if you are a light sleeper, try to get the rooms facing the courtyard.  We had the room facing the street which had a great balcony, but I could definitely hear street noise late at night and early in the morning.  The wine bar at the hotel has repeatedly been named the best wine bar in Buenos Aires, but I think you have to book wine tastings to enter the premises if you are not a hotel guest.  We did partake in the wine tasting offered at the hotel and it was lovely.  Let's just say the owner loves to drink wine - probably more than we do!)

what martinikitty liked and disliked about rio

Lapa Steps (Selaron's Staircase) in Rio.

(Rio, Brazil).  I traveled to Rio in 2013 to visit friends who moved there from San Diego and to celebrate my birthday.  They had an amazing apartment in Ipanema, right across from the lake which was surrounded by jogging and bike trails and coconut vendors.   We were able to take lovely walks around the lake, but it was way too hot and humid to try to jog.

While in Rio, I couldn't help but feel as if I was in a country that was growing much too quickly at a pace that was overwhelming their local economy and infrastructure.  For example, the prices were surprisingly high (similar to New York or London), but the local economy and standard of living was nowhere near that level so it was difficult not to see and feel that discrepancy and tension everywhere.  It was also difficult not to notice the constant gridlock in traffic, the incomplete construction everywhere, the socioeconomic tensions, the labor protests, the lack of sufficient hotels and visitor services, and the prevalent crime.  While I normally don't expect locals to speak or understand english, I did sort of expect the staff at the high-end hotels, restaurants and bars to understand a little bit of english but it was a challenge everywhere - even the airport.  I kept finding myself thinking "how are they going to get ready for the upcoming Olympics and World Cup"?  But let's hope for the best!

martinikitty's favorite places to frequent in new orleans

Street performers on Bourbon.

I've been to New Orleans several times for its annual Jazz & Heritage Festival (NOLA Jazzfest) and each time I find myself falling in love with the city more and more.  Who could possibly resist the amazing food, cocktails, music and joyous energy that permeates throughout this wonderful place?  I certainly could not.  And the fact that this is where I met my husband is simply icing on the cake.  NOLA will forever hold a special place in my heart and I look forward to visiting many more times in the future.

While I always like trying places I haven't been to before wherever I am, there are still those places that you miss and want to enjoy over and over again.  I'm not necessarily saying these are the best places in New Orleans, but rather, these are the places that I cannot imagine skipping whenever I return to New Orleans.