sorrento - highlights, tips and recommendations

A view of Mt. Vesuvius from Sorrento.

(Sorrento, Italy).  After the hectic sightseeing, shopping and eating in Rome, Florence and Bologna, Sorrento was a nice change of pace for us.  While it is still touristy, it does feel more like a quaint beach town, and we were definitely ready for some relaxation!

What were some highlights of Sorrento for us?

  

1.   Location.  Sorrento is located at the beginning of the Amalfi Drive in Southern Italy (connecting Sorrento and Amalfi along a beautiful and scenic - but precarious - route).  It is also conveniently located for day trips to other parts of Southern Italy.  For example, you can easily grab a ferry to Capri or Positano; take the local train to Pompeii or Naples; and/or take a tour or hire a driver to Positano or Ravello.  Tip:  I wouldn't recommend renting a car and driving in this area because, to put it simply, it's scary.  The roads are very narrow and winding along steep cliffs, and the locals drive very fast.  The locals also don't like foreign drivers on the Amalfi Drive because they tend to be the cause of delays and accidents.  We hired a private driver for an Amalfi coast tour and it was definitely worth it for us but it was not cheap (about 360 euros).  If that is out of your budget, consider joining a group tour.  It would be better to leave the driving to professionals while you enjoy the majestic views of the coastline.

It's generally cheaper to stay in Sorrento than in Capri or Positano, so you should factor that in your trip planning when you visit this area.

2. Food.  It was nice to take a break from heavy pastas and meats and enjoy some fresh seafood in Sorrento.  Some of our favorite meals in town included:

The "Italian Elvis"

• Tavern Allegra* - This restaurant was a blast!  Not only was the food delicious, they also provided live musical entertainment by the "Italian Elvis" (dubbed so by my husband).  It's a pretty cheesy and touristy place, but the food was truly phenomenal - particularly my clam pasta with zucchini and my grilled prawns in butter.

• Pizzeria Aurora* -  This restaurant is located right on the main square (which offers fabulous people-watching) and they serve straightforward and delicious antipasti, pastas and pizzas. 

  

  Isn't this cart awesome??

  You can watch them make the pizzas in their gigantic pizza oven.  But the true star of the place is their gorgeous dessert cart.  Tip - It seems they immediately offer tourists cheesecake or tiramisu - maybe it's easy for them to describe them in english or perhaps they are routinely met with tourists who only want these desserts???  I don't know their rationale, but  when my server gave me only these two options, I protested and pointed to the amazing dessert cart parked on the patio area, and the server broke out in a wide grin and happily took me to the cart to pick out our desserts.  So the tip is to keep your eyes open for the good stuff and don't let people limit your food choices needlessly!  Anyways, we got an amazing wild strawberry tart and a walnut/chocolate cake.
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• Vela Bianca* - This is a higher end seafood restaurant located at the Marina Piccola.  For dinner, they offer a free pickup/dropoff from your hotel in Sorrento, which is convenient since it's quite a steep hike to get from the Marina to the town center.  While I actually preferred the more rustic seafood at Taverna Allegra, this place is still worth a visit especially for a special occasion because of the ambience and fancier seafood preparations.

• Leone Russo Pizzeria* - Great pizza place located near the train station.  My husband and I both attempted to eat our own pizzas because we were that greedy and they were that good.  However, we enjoyed the seafood appetizers even more - little fried shrimps and squid... mmmmm....

Honorable mention goes out to Pizzeria Tasso (delightful seafood pizza, below) but if you have to choose between this and Leone Russo, I'd pick Leone Russo for food, but note that Tasso has a prettier, nicer ambience.

I would NOT recommend 'O Canonico - which is a sister restaurant to Pizzeria Aurora.  The service and ambience were lovely, but the food was mediocre and actually much more expensive.  Another disappointment was Gelato Davide - which was touted as the best gelato place in Sorrento, but was probably the worst gelato I had in all of Italy.  Perhaps I ordered poorly but my gelato was icy and not creamy at all.
3.  Beaches/Sunbathing.  Italy isn't known for sandy beaches.  In fact most of their useable beaches are on rocky shores or teeny patches of sand.  Essentially you rent chairs/daybeds and umbrellas at a club and enjoy the sun and water with the masses.  It's actually a fun experience and highly recommended.  Tip - They don't seem to have lifeguards though so I would recommend swimming only if the waters are calm (or if you are a super strong swimmer).

4. Limoncello/Granita.  Sorrento is famous for lemons - and more particularly, the digestif, limoncello.  It seems every family here makes their own limoncello.  Some of the local restaurants are happy to share their own stash with you after your meal.  There are also limoncello tastings at some of the stores in town, as well as guided limoncello tours where they take you on a tour of the lemon groves and factories.  

In addition to limoncello, there is also an abundance of lemon granitas - basically a lemon slushie, but it's so tasty and refreshing on a hot summer day.

5. Shopping.  I found the shopping in Sorrento fabulous!  Some of my favorite items included:

• Ceramics - It was a wonderful place to pick up lovely ceramics (but in my opinion, the ceramics in Ravello and Positano were even better).  The style in Southern Italy is different than in Florence - the colors and themes are much more lively and vibrant, whereas the ceramics in Florence seemed more subdued and stately.
• Candies/Confections - Wonderful specialty confections made from local fruits and nuts.  We picked up some limoncello candies (with a shot of limoncello in the center) and candied almonds from Confetti e Agrumetti* - they offer free tastings of their candies and limoncellos!
• Linens/Aprons, etc. - Embroidered with local themes and motifs (e.g., lemons, olives, etc.).

• Jewelry - There are lovely jewelry boutiques in Sorrento - many with beautiful handmade creations.  I purchased some lovely earrings in the shape of grapes from the lovely couple (below).  The husband is the artist and designer and his wife runs the shop.  

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• Sandals - There is a huge variety of sandals here - from simple flip flops to heavily decorated masterpieces.  There are several stores that custom-make sandals for you on the spot!  I had a pair made and it was amazing to see their craft first hand.  On Capri there is a famous sandal maker where Jackie O used to shop but it's pretty expensive.  If you don't want to pay a premium just to shop where Jackie O did, just buy your sandals in Sorrento or Positano.
  
  
• Perfumes - It's always fun to buy perfumes during a trip.  Everytime you use it, you'll be reminded of your trip!

6. People Watching.  It was perhaps the combination of the sunny weather, the leisurely pace of the town and the small size of the town square - but whatever the reason - it made for great people-watching.  We often found ourselves seated at one of the bars along the square enjoying some rose or whiskey and olives and letting time slowly pass by.  I think our favorite bar was Fauno* (?) - mainly because I loved their green olives.  So good!  The service was actually a bit aloof and snooty, but I didn't care so long as they kept the olives coming!

* recommended

What are some of your favorite things to do/eat in Sorrento?