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| A romantic gondola - no, we didn't go on it.... |
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| On the Grand Canal. |
To be honest, I don't love Venice. Don't get me wrong - I think it's a beautiful and marvelous place that should be visited - but be forewarned that it is a big tourist trap. It's difficult not to feel as if you are being gouged at every turn while also experiencing an undercurrent of resentment from some of the local Venetians who have a love/hate relationship with tourists. My recommendation would be to take a day trip into Venice to experience this gorgeous city built on water, but I would not stay there because it's quite expensive and this is one place in Italy where the food is pretty mediocre unless you know specifically where to dine. In my experience, most of the restaurants are terribly touristy and pricey. I wouldn't mind paying for good food, but paying a lot for bad food is another story.
When we arrived at the train station (Stazione Ferroviaria S. Lucia), we took the ferry to San Marco (7 euros per person). It's very easy to buy a ticket at the kiosk and you can easily follow the hundreds of other tourists to ensure you are getting on the correct ferry. I would definitely recommend taking the ferry because it's a wonderful way to see the Grand Canal from the water. You can also take private water taxis (which is quite expensive) or walk from the train station to San Marco (where all the major tourist attractions are). I've never done the walk myself but I think it takes about 30-45 minutes. Here's a great article that describes the route in detail. If your smartphone works in Italy, you can also use your map apps.
Once you get to San Marco, many of the main tourist attractions are concentrated near there - which makes it simultaneously convenient and frustrating because the crowds can be intense. Most tourists will see:
- San Marco Piazza*
- Bridge of Sighs*
- San Marco Basilica*
- Doge's Palace*
- Bell Tower
- Clock Tower
The lines for some of these attractions (e.g., Doge's Palace) can be very long so plan ahead and make reservations or join tours that will maximize the time you have in Venice. This was my third time in Venice and my husband didn't care to go into the palace or climb any towers, so we basically took a bunch of pictures around the square and then went on a leisurely stroll. (I did half-consider getting espresso on St. Mark's Square but if you want to sit on the square you have to pay about $15-20 for an espresso. For the third time in my life, I found I could not bring myself to pay that much for an espresso.)
Venice is a wonderful place to get lost in. There are numerous narrow alleyways and paths to explore. Since there are thousands of tourists all milling about and it's a pretty safe city (other than pickpockets), I've never been worried meandering around aimlessly. But in this particular case, we had a goal in mind - which was to find All'Arco* - a cicheti bar near the Rialto Bridge*. (Cicheti bars are basically like tapas bars in Spain - they are great watering holes where one can grab tasty small plates and snacks. I was inspired to find one after reading this article in the Guardian.)
When we walked into the teeny bar, we were a little intimidated at first since it was obvious we were surrounded by Italians who didn't appear to speak any english. Luckily the owner's son did speak a little bit of english and took our order - or rather, he offered to make us a mixed selection of small plates - and everything was delicious! We particularly liked the marinated squid, but all the different crostinis with cheeses, veggies and/or seafood were also delectable. There is barely any seating there (a few scattered tables outside) so we just ordered our food and stood at a counter while we stuffed our faces. Yum! This was probably the best eating experience I've ever had in Venice (after 3 trips)!
To finish off the meal, we went to a nearby gelato place called White*. It is a very modern "self-service" gelato place and I was concerned that it wouldn't be good - but I was pleasantly surprised to be wrong. The gelato was actually quite rich and creamy, and the selection of toppings were varied and appealing. I decided to have a simple mix of vanilla gelato with brandied cherries and a wafer cookie. It hit the spot perfectly!
We spent the rest of the afternoon getting lost in the city and buying souvenirs. Yes, the city is touristy but there are some beautiful crafts to buy - delicate and vibrant murano glassworks, ornately decorated masks, intricate tapestries and pillow covers, pewter figurines, etc.
Before we hopped back onto the ferry for the train station we stopped into the famous Harry's Bar* near San Marco Piazza. It is known as the birthplace of the bellini - and while it is tasty, don't expect anything fancy. They basically have a pre-made peach juice mix and they serve it to you in a small plain water glass with some prosecco. That's it... for about $28 each.
It's still fun to experience this legendary bar, but know that it will cost you. They are also rather strict about photography in the bar. Ask for permission first (and they may agree depending on how they feel) or you risk getting yelled at. On my previous visit, the bartenders were very nice and took a picture of my mom and I with the bar as the background - but only because we asked them nicely. On that same visit, I saw them yell at another group for taking pictures.
Our trip back on the ferry to the train station and back to Bologna was peaceful and uneventful... except for the really loud lady from New Jersey who literally talked for the entire ride. Thank goodness for earphones!
For us, a quick day trip to Venice was the perfect way to enjoy the beauty of Venice. What are your favorite day trips in Italy?
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