Wednesday, September 24, 2014

quick trip to pompeii

In the Forum area.  That's Mt. Vesuvius in the background.
(Pompeii, Italy). Ever since I was a child, I beheld Pompeii with great wonder even though I couldn't fully comprehend the archaeological and historical value of the site.  I think it was probably because I was mesmerized by Roman and Greek mythology and imagined that Pompeii somehow represented all of that mysticism and magic.  (I'm also a big Dr. Who and sci-fi/fantasy fan, so I've probably watched every silly show that was set in Pompeii.)

Looking at the Porta Marina - the entrance.

In reality, Pompeii is an impressive site because this ancient town - through tragic happenstance - has been incredibly well-preserved for over 2000 years.  It was completely devastated and buried when Mt. Vesuvius erupted in 80 B.C. and the town, its culture and its people were literally encapsulated in time, waiting to be discovered.  It is truly astonishing to realize just how advanced these people were so many years ago.  Many tourists rush to see the people who are frozen in the agonies of death ... I actually find that a bit macabre.  What I am much more fascinated by are the evidence of how they lived their daily lives - e.g., their public baths and steam rooms, their temples, their brothels, their fast food vendors, etc. 
Those holes are for pots of food kept warm by the fire below - amazing!


If you are a history buff, you can literally spend all day here if you wish.  There are many private, group or self-guided tours you can choose from.  (Tip - In fact, if you are a true history buff and want to hire a private driver and be guided by someone from the archaeological museum in Naples, I might have a contact for you.)  

My husband and I chose to go with a self-guided tour by Rick Steves, which was informative and suited our needs.  Be warned however that Pompeii is still an active excavation site so they are constantly renovating and opening up new areas, so our audio tour was not 100% up-to-date.  But we saw all the big "hits".


If you wish to tackle Pompeii on your own - as we did - my best tip is to GO EARLY!  We took the local train (Circumvesuviana) from Sorrento (about 40 minutes and about 3 euros each way) and arrived at Pompeii (exit at the Pompeii/Scavi stop) around 9am.  From the train station it's a short walk to the entrance of the Pompeii site (just follow the signs).  There was literally no line at the ticket counter and we got our tickets and were able to explore and take pictures for a couple of hours before the hoards of tourists (many from cruise ships) descended upon the area.   When we left Pompeii, the line for tickets was several hundred people deep.
See - no lines!

There are maps available in multiple languages at the visitor center or you can easily find maps to download to your smart device or to carry with you.

The main attractions are usually as follows:

The Basilica.

Check out the crosswalk!
  • Forum - When you pass through the main entrance ( Porta Marina), you will look upon the Forum which is the main square of the city.  In its prime, it was surrounded by the main religious and political buildings of Pompeii.
  • Temple of Jupiter - at one end of the Forum, you will see the Temple of Jupiter and beyond that, Mount Vesuvius.
  • The Basilica - essentially the courthouse.  Only the columns remain but you can imagine how big and impressive it must have been.
  • Via Abbondanza - the main street in town lined with shops and restaurants.  If you look at the streets in Pompeii you will be amazed at the careful design - they have rocks that serve as pedestrian crosswalks during raining days but are spaced in a way to allow chariots to cross.  Amazing!
  • Market area / Plaster casts of victims - This area was originally the market area where people bought their produce and meats.  Today, it's where you can witness the plaster casts of victims who were buried in the volcano eruption.  Eerie....
  • Baths of the Forum- amazing public baths, designed to have "lockers" for belongings and steam baths, etc.
  • House of the Tragic Poet - representing a typical Roman home, but it is famous for the mosaic in its entryway - essentially a "beware of dog" sign.  
  • House of the Vettii - a well preserved and lovely villa with gardens and remnants of gorgeous frescoes.  (The original frescoes and statues are generally in the museum in Naples.  What is usually left in Pompeii for tourists to see are replicas.)
  • House of the Faun - deemed the largest home in Pompeii.  It's also famous for the statute of the Dancing Faun in its courtyard - the original is in the museum in Naples.
    There's the dancing faun.
  • Brothel / Lupanare - This is a very popular tourist site.  I guess prostitution is truly the oldest profession in the world.  In here, you can see the actual stone beds which were used for shady dealings (the people were really tiny and short then) and the walls are decorated with menus of the services offered.
    This bed is teeny tiny!  And it's made of stone!
  • Amphitheater - This is where the gladiators would fight - nearby there is a gladiator arena and training area.
  • Bakery - The original ovens are still intact and in view of their size, they must have made lots of bread!


We were probably in Pompeii for about 3 or 4 hours.  This was actually my second visit so I was able to guide my husband through rather efficiently.  He studied anthropology in college so he was especially excited to see Pompeii.

Additional tips:
  • Wear comfortable shoes - I am constantly astonished seeing tourists in kitten heels, super high wedges or stilettos teetering around Italy.  Seriously people!  No one is checking you out except to wonder why the heck you are wearing those shoes!
  • During the summer - wear sun protection (e.g., hats, spf, parasols, etc.)
  • There's only one place to get food and drinks on the premises and it's overpriced and not very good.  I'd recommend just having a snack and saving yourself for some good Italian food after you are done visiting Pompeii.
  • If you are taking the local train, watch out for pickpockets and gypsies asking for handouts (or forcing their musical entertainment on you).
We absolutely enjoyed our quick visit to Pompeii.  What were your favorite attractions there? 

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