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| Lechon during Noche Buena. |
A majority Catholic country with a long history as a Spanish colony, most people in the Philippines celebrate Christmas with a lot of church-going, eating, and more eating.
From about December 16 to 24, churches - both Catholics and Protestants - hold nightly mass or service, locally known as "simbang gabi" in Tagalog. But, in practicality, they usually occur before the crack of dawn so it is called "simbang madaling araw" (or pre-dawn worship).
For food lovers, simbang gabi is exciting because of what happens after the mass or service. Because they tend to be well-attended, many food vendors usually set up their stalls outside the churches. There, you can find delicious goodies. Watch out for:
- Bibingka (pronounced bee-BEENG-kah) - sweet glutinous rice lined with banana leaves, and cooked over and under hot coals. The finished product is a delicious rice cake with a bit of a char on top. Find a vendor that cooks them to order.
- Puto Bungbong (pronounced poo-toh BOONG-bong) - another sweet glutinous rice based dish but looks purple because of the addition of purple yam (or "ube" [pronounced OOO-beh]). They are steamed and look like a purple tube.
On Christmas eve, churches again open their doors, but, this time, in the evening. Thereafter, around 11 pm or so, families and their friends gather together and eat to celebrate Noche Buena or good night. Despite the fact that it is midnight, people welcome Christmas day with a feast that may include, Lechon (whole roast pig); Pansit (noodles); and Arroz Caldo (hot soupy rice).
On Christmas day, the eating continues.
So, if you ever find yourself in the Philippines around Christmas, find a Filipino friend and try and get an invitation to Noche Buena. If not, at least try to visit the food stalls after simbang gabi (around 5 or 6 am) and eat bibingka and puto bungbong.
What other Christmas traditions have you encountered during your travels?
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