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| A view of the summit from Karanga camp. |
While its 5,895 meters (or 19,340 feet) height is not as impressive as, say, Mt. Everest, it is still pretty high up there and altitude sickness is a common affliction among hikers. It may be an "easy" hike but the altitude could prevent you from reaching the summit.
If you plan on hiking Kili, these are my tips:
1. Choose your Outfitter Wisely.
An internet search will lead you to a lot of outfitters who can guide you to the summit and back. For me, I took the following into consideration when choosing the right outfitter:
- safety record - I read a lot of online reviews
- how they treat the environment
- how they treat their porters - disgruntled porters will likely provide sub-par service
- affordability
I chose Zara Tours because, at the time, they met my criteria. When my friend and I arrived in Tanzania, we were pleasantly surprised to find that we were in a private group. For the two of us, we had a guide (Shabaz), an assistant guide (Bashir), a cook (Michael), a waiter (Mohammad) and five porters (whose names I'm having a hard time remembering -- so sorry, guys!). Although we shared a campsite with other people, we had our own tent and meals, and we set off on our own schedule. The porters carried most of our stuff plus the tents and the food, while Shabaz and Bashir walked with us. On summit night, Shabaz, Bashir and Michael went up with us. I had a good experience with Zara Tours although the hotels where we stayed pre and post hike were fairly basic.
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| Our guides, Shabaz and Bashir. |
The key to successfully summit-ing Kili is to acclimate properly. There are five routes to get to the top: Marangu, Machame, Shira, Lemosho, Rongai, Umbwe and the Northern Circuit. The shortest routes are Marangu, also known as the Coca-Cola route because, apparently, locals sold Coke along the route (I didn't take this route so I can't confirm that), and Umbwe. Both require a minimum of five days to hike (although most outfits will take you on a hike for six days). The longest route is the Northern Circuit route, which requires a minimum of nine days to do the hike.
The longer you are on the mountain, the more expensive it will be. This is because you will need to pay for your guide and porters, and you (and your guides) will need more food. But, if you take a shorter route, it is likely that you may not acclimate to the altitude. Altitude sickness is serious and may lead to death. So, when choosing a route, you need to seriously consider not just costs but also the best way to safely summit.
I took the Machame route for seven days (six days to ascend and one day to descend). This route allowed me enough time to acclimate, while also maximizing my limited vacation time. My pre-trip research also showed that, although the route could be popular with hikers, it has pretty views. When I hiked Kili, I saw hikers but it wasn't crowded considering its popularity.
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| Machame route. |
3. Talk to A Health Care Provider About Medication.
In addition to the usual medication travelers carry (anti-diarrhea, aspirin, etc.), I recommend that you talk to your doctor and discuss the possibility of getting a prescription for preventing and/or combating altitude sickness. I am not recommending any particular medication because I am not a doctor. During my research, however, I found two types of medication that could be helpful: Diamox and Viagra (yes, that viagra). Again, I am not a doctor so I won't get into the details but these were some of the things I found on Diamox and Viagra. Of course, your doctor will know more and should be in the best position to advise you on medication (if any) that's best for you.
During the hike, I felt the effects of altitude sickness around day two. (The Machame route hike started at Machame gate at 1,800 meters or 5,905 feet). I suffered from a mild headache. Then, as we ascended higher, I couldn't walk as fast. By the time we reached Barranco camp, I lost my appetite. I did not take Viagra. Instead, I took Diamox (I brought a low dose pill and took only half of that dosage). Despite the very low dosage, I didn't like the way Diamox made me feel -- I felt tingly all over. But, I think the medication helped because my headache went away. I also walked really slowly so I could deal with the thinning air better.
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| The Machame route requires getting through the Barranco wall. |
4. If you don't have a penis, bring a "Freshette."
For women, the call of nature requires having to squat. And, in a place where there are no bathrooms, and where going off trail might not be feasible (or doesn't provide sufficient privacy), peeing without having to drop trou is liberating. So, consider bringing a freshette and pee like you've never peed before.
A word of caution: don't pee uphill and check where the wind is blowing. I learned that the hard way. If you need a detailed explanation, please feel free to send me a private email or ask your male friends.
One last thing, clean your freshette after every use -- while on the trail, I "rinsed" mine with hand sanitizer.
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| Sunrise over Uhuru peak. |
5. Bring lots of Ziploc bags.
Kili is beautiful. Help keep it that way by taking your trash back down the mountain with you. Large ziploc (or similar type) bags are perfect for storing (and sealing) your trash (such as the many wipes you will use as a substitute for bathing), and your freshette (see # 4 above).
Keep your clothes dry by keeping them in sealable plastic bags. The weather in the mountain is unpredictable. So, if you are caught in a sudden downpour, you know your clothes will be protected.
Similarly, use these bags to protect your camera and other electronics. They won't be useful if they get drenched.
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| Wildlife on the trail. |
6. Bring extra batteries.
It goes without saying that there are no electric outlets on the trail. So, if you must bring electronic equipment, bring extra batteries or battery packs (fully charged) and/or solar chargers. I recommend, however, that you bring as little electronic devices as possible. You want to limit the weight of your pack so you can concentrate on dealing with the altitude and not with the additional concern of lugging around excess weight. But, more importantly, you'll want to disconnect and just enjoy the moment.
That being said, you can get cellular reception on parts of Kili. I know. Crazy.
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| Mawenzi peak as seen from Barafu camp. |
7. Eat and drink lots of water.
You need to eat and drink water during the hike. You need energy to ascend. Although I lost my appetite during the hike, I still forced myself to eat. I also tried to keep hydrated.
The altitude may sap your energy but don't let it sap your strength as well.
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| On the way to the summit. Sunrise over Mawenzi peak and Kenya. |
8. Walk slowly and enjoy the scenery.
It is not a race. You will not be the first person (or the last) to summit Kilimanjaro. There is no point in getting "there" as soon as possible.
The air gets thinner as you ascend, and walking faster requires more oxygen. So, it's a lose-lose proposition to require more oxygen in a place that has less of it. Take your time. Enjoy the scenery. Observe how the topography differs as you climb higher. Watch the sun rise over Kenya on summit day. Stop and take lots of pictures. You'll have a better chance of making it to the top if you take it slow.
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| The Snows of Kilimanjaro. |
9. Know your body.
The most fit hikers, like tennis great Martina Navratilova, could still succumb to altitude sickness. On day three of the hike, my friend and I talked to two seemingly-fit German boys we met at Machame gate at the beginning of the hike. They told us they were heading back down because they were experiencing fast heartbeat and headaches. After day three, Shabaz and Bashir, our guides, gave us daily news they've heard on their two-way radios about other hikers who had to descend due to altitude sickness. On summit night, after hiking halfway through the last bit of the trail, my friend had to head back down to lower elevations because she had severe headaches and her heart was beating very fast. Near the summit, I saw other hikers fainting and had to be held up by their guides.
The lesson here is: life is more important than reaching the top. It is not about how fit you are. It is about how altitude affects you. Listen to your body. If it is saying it can't go up higher, you need to listen and immediately go down. And, you want to walk down using your own feet, and not be taken down on a stretcher.
10. During your descent, use your heels.
What goes up, must go down -- something about gravity. That's true of hiking a mountain.
After you reach the summit, the immediate descent will be steep and you'll go through scree. Most people know to protect their knees by using a pair of hiking poles. But, most people don't take the time to also protect their toe nails. Yes, toe nails. If you walk down toes first, you'll put a lot of pressure on them and it'll hit the edge of your shoes. If you're not careful, your toe nails might turn black, or worse, you might lose a toe nail (or two). To avoid that, in addition to using two hiking poles, lead off with your heels when sliding down the scree.
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| Sazy rock and Bashir at the summit. |
A few other miscellaneous (but handy) tips:
- get to know your guides and porters - they're an interesting bunch and they have some fascinating stories to tell. And, don't forget to tip them generously. They are literally doing all the heavy lifting.
- look up at the night sky - heaven has never been so close (unless you've hiked Mt. Everest).
- it's freezing at the top! Global warming might have caused the glaciers to recede significantly. But, don't be fooled. It's still very, very cold at the top. So, make sure you have appropriate clothing on summit night - wear thermal tops and bottoms, quick drying shirts for layering, a hoodie, a thick jacket with a hood, gloves, ski pants, and a warm balaclava (or, if you don't have one, a beanie).
- celebrate your accomplishment!
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| A nice reward. |
If you've hiked Mt. Kilimanjaro, please share your experience below.
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