how to get around in new zealand

A view from the Mackinnon Pass on the Milford Track.

New Zealand is one of the most beautiful countries I have visited in my recent travels. Views of mountains, waterfalls, glaciers, fjords, beaches and rolling hills unobstructed by man or man-made structures inspired plenty of quiet reflection as well as lively discussions about the wonders of nature. At the same time, the melding of nature and man-made structures, like Hobbiton, stimulated the imagination. Finally, the cities (like Wellington, Queenstown and Christchurch) were full of mostly lovely people willing to assist lost travelers like me and Mr. SR, and in some cases, invite us to their home. All this waxing poetic about New Zealand has a purpose. To get to see all this beauty, one needs to get around. And, how does one get around?

Airplanes

As you may (or may not) know, New Zealand is primarily divided into the the more populous North Island, and the less populous South Island. Auckland, which is most people's likely port of entry, is in the North Island. Getting to the South Island will take long drives and a ferry crossing. So, the fastest way to get around is by plane.

While it is definitely faster to get from point A to point B by taking a plane, you will miss out on seeing the beautiful countryside in both the North and South Islands. Sure, use the plane if you are strapped for time. Otherwise, I suggest the alternative modes of transportation below.

Car Rentals

Renting a vehicle and driving yourself is the best way to get around the country. Because the country is small the main roads are few. Also, they are well maintained and well sign posted. So, it is hard to get lost or hit a pothole. 

I found it fairly easy to rent a vehicle, which I did online through Jucy. Mr. SR and I did not have an international driver's license; instead, we only had our California driver's license, which was sufficient. We purchased insurance because we were not sure whether our car insurance back home would cover us. We did not rent a GPS because the highways to get from point A to point B were fairly straightforward. We only made sure that we had a map (or printed directions  because we did not have wifi while driving). With printed google maps on hand and the uncomplicated highways, we did not get lost. Returning our rental vehicle was also easy. We just dropped off the vehicle with an attendant. 

If you decide to rent with Jucy, just be aware that they paint their vehicles garishly - in loud green and purple colors to be exact. But, we found a really good relocation deal where our rent was $1 per day plus other perks if we drove our rental from the South Island to Auckland in a given period of time. Despite the loud colors, we saw plenty of Jucy rentals on the road. We ended up waving at other Jucy drivers whenever we passed each other, and that gave us some sense of community (albeit fleetingly) with them.

Our Jucy rental during a lunch stop somewhere by Lake Taupo.

Just remember that Kiwis drive on the left side of the road. Also, try not to get distracted by the beautiful scenery and keep your eyes on the road. 

Public Transportation

If driving is not a viable option for you, taking public transportation is a fantastic alternative.

• Trains  

Getting around New Zealand by train is easy. There are three main routes: the Northern route, which goes through the North Island between Auckland to Wellington; the Coastal route, which goes through the Pacific coast of the South Island between Christchurch and Picton; and the TranzAlpine route, which goes across the South Island between Greymouth and Christchurch and passing through New Zealand's alps. 

Inside the train. 

Mr. SR and I took the TranzAlpine route. I bought our tickets online well ahead of time and brought a printed copy with me. Checking in at the small train station was easy. We just handed our tickets at the counter and the staff instructed us to check in our luggage with the porter, who then gave us claim tags.

Although our train did not leave the station on time, we still found our journey very pleasant. The cars were very clean, and our assigned seats were comfortable. It was also easy to admire the scenery because the windows were large and extended to parts of the roof of the car. Also, there was a viewing car with open windows and no glass that allowed me to take pictures without any glare. Note, however, that the viewing car could get crowded especially in the very, very scenic parts of the route (I found most of the route beautiful but some parts of it were even more so). Although the train had a dining car, staff came by to take food orders. The TranzAlpine also stopped mid-route, which allowed everyone an opportunity to stretch their legs or enjoy the scenery.

The TranzAlpine viewing car.

When we arrived at our destination, we had to wait for the porters to put all the passenger bags on a conveyor belt. Just like at airports, we picked up our bags once we saw them come out. 

On a prior trip, Mr. SR took the Coastal route and he told me that it was clean and comfortable, and had stunning views of the Pacific coast.

I definitely enjoyed my train ride.

A view from the TranzAlpine train.

• Long Distance Buses   

As you can probably tell, because there are only three train routes, some places do not have train access. Enter public buses.

An intercity bus from Franz Josef to Nelson.

I used InterCity to get from Queenstown to Franz Josef to Greymouth. I bought our bus tickets online and well ahead of time. 

I found the buses comfortable. Although the journey sometimes took eight hours to get from point A to point B, it was only because the schedule allowed a couple of breaks to get food or to stretch the legs. In addition to these stops, on the way to Franz Josef, the bus also stopped so the passengers could go on a short (less than a quarter of a mile) hike to a waterfall along the route. And, on the way to Greymouth, our bus stopped at a roadside so we could take a picture of a particularly scenic view of the Tasman sea. Our bus drivers were also friendly and full of information. During the bus rides, they frequently pointed out interesting things about the places we were passing.

One of the stops between Queenstown and Franz Josef -
a short hike to this waterfall.

I thought the buses ran on time. In fact, one of my bus' schedule was timed to meet the TranzAlpine at Greymouth with enough time to check in and get a snack at the train station.

Although the bus rides ran smoothly, I found the bus "terminal" in Queenstown to be somewhat of a mess. The terminal was an open area where buses pulled in. There was no employee at the terminal so many travelers were just standing around waiting for buses to arrive. There were two lanes where buses could pull in and there was no clear sign where particular buses would stop. So, we ended up crossing those lanes many times to figure out which bus has arrived. Once we found our bus, the bus driver stepped off the bus to check the bus tickets and direct passengers to deposit luggage in the compartment. We did not see any discernible line to check in with the bus driver so it was a bit chaotic. 

Overall, however, I found the long distance bus travel stress-free and easy.

• City Buses

I took public city buses only in Queenstown (we walked everywhere else) to get to other neighboring towns. Again, I found the buses clean and timely. I also found the bus employees to be extremely helpful and honest. I left my iPhone on the bus and when I realized I dropped it in the bus, I immediately called the bus line. They immediately got in touch with the bus driver, who found and returned my phone.

A view of Lake Wakatipu in Queenstown.

In using a combination of the above modes of transportation, I can attest that they were all excellent ways to get to see New Zealand. I hope you enjoy your trip and see as much of the country as your schedule permits!

If you have visited New Zealand, how did you get around?