guide to eating noodles in koreatown(la)

There are three representative noodle meals (in my opinion) that anyone who wants familiarity with Korean cuisine or Koreatown food scene needs to be aware of: jajangmyeon, black bean noodles; kalgooksoo, knife-cut noodles; and mul naengmyeon, cold soup noodles.

Jajangmyeon
Technically, jajangmyeon is not a Korean dish. It's Chinese in that it's typically sold in Chinese restaurants run by ethnic Chinese who cater to Korean clientele but it cannot be found in other Chinese restaurants. The prevalence and popularity of jajangmyeon in Korea is undisputed. Having jajangmyeon for lunch in Korea is equivalent to having a burger for lunch in America. The sauce is unique in its black color and is made from dark soybean paste. The sauce is stir-fried with onions, ground meat (pork or beef typically) and smattering of other vegetables and sometimes topped with julienned cucumbers. The noodle is thick tubular shape like a fatter spaghetti and made from white wheat flour. Traditionally pulled by hand in a theatrically repetitive stretching and twisting motion, today restaurants primarily rely on machines to pull this ever popular noodle. Sidenote: In Korea, April 14th is called Black Day and singles gather to commiserate their singledom by donning black color clothing and eating black foods e.g., jajangmyeon.

Paik's Noodles

In Koreatown, any Chinese restaurant will serve this signature dish. Paik's Noodles, a new entrant to the K-town scene (but a proven chain in Korea), only serves four dishes, jajangmyeon being one, and does them well. The sauce is slightly sweet, onions are not over-whelming and meat tender. For a more substantive meal, pair this noodle dish with the sweet and sour pork, a proven popular combo. The ambiance is atypical for a Chinese restaurant with pounding K-pop blaring and overly enthusiastic servers greeting customers but the food is solid with fresh ingredients and the price is cheap ($5.99 for jajangmyeon; $9.99 for sweet and sour pork).

Kalgooksoo
Kalgooksoo literally means knife noodles. It's made from white wheat flour dough that is chilled, rolled out and cut with a knife into long flat shape like a linguine. It's served hot in chicken, anchovy or clam broth. Chicken kalgooksoo is very similar to American chicken noodle soup, except with more noodles and

shrimp/seafood & chicken kalgooksoo

seasoning. The broth is typically made from a meat of choice -anchovy, clam or chicken- and zucchini, potatoes, garlic, onions and leeks/scallions. Chicken broth tends to be thicker and starchy, leading to be a more filling meal, than the seafood or anchovy versions. Additional seasoning with red pepper paste or kimchi is recommended to add a kick to the dish.

Ma Dang Gook Soo 869 W. Western Ave #1, LA (cross street James Woods) and Hangari Bakirak 3470 W. 6th St., LA (cross street Alexandria) are both hole-in-the-wall noodle houses that know how to do kalgooksoo right.  For under $10, you can get a huge bowl of soul/body nourishing meal. Hangari does not have an English sign, so you must look for it inside the Alexandria Plaza next to Cafe Bleu. Menu is also only in Korean: #2 shrimp/seafood and #3 chicken.

Mul Naengmyeon
On a hot day as a meal or as accompaniment for galbi, nothing beats a cold bowl of mul naengmyeon. Naengmyeon can be served in cold broth or with spicy sauce. Originally from North Korea, the noodles are typically made from buckwheat and have a very chewy consistency. Mul means water and indicates the cold soup version. The broth is typically made from beef and served cold topped with slices of beef, julienned cucumbers, hard boiled egg and slices of pears or radishes. Mustard oil and vinegar are added to taste.

Most Korean BBQ places will serve naengmyeon. General tip, good meat places usually have good naengmyeon. Chuson Gabee has an excellent naengmyeon and galbi lunch combo for $24.  For a slightly different take, try YuChun ChicNaengmyun 3185 W. Olympic Blvd, LA (cross street Serrano). YuChun is known for their black colored arrowroot noodle chik mul naengmyeon.  Tip: ask for the noodles to be cut with scissors for easier consumption.