hotel review: hiiragiya ryokan in kyoto

It looks unassuming from the outside - but wait until you step inside!

(Kyoto, Japan).  Whenever I do an international trip, I like to end with a luxury and/or spa hotel to fully relax before returning to the daily grind.  I knew I wanted to try one of the traditional Japanese inns with hot spring baths and formal kaiseki meals.  After a LOT of research, I chose Hiiragiya Ryokan - which if the rumors are correct, was where John Lennon and Yoko Ono stayed, among many other notable and celebrated individuals.  While that seemed cool, what really sold me were the consistent reviews of the delicious kaiseki meals and the amazing service; not to mention their thoughtful and detailed website.  

So how was my stay?

The front courtyard.

Check-In

We arrived hours ahead of the official check-in time (I think 3pm), but I had asked if we could drop off our luggage early and they were happy to accommodate.  When we arrived, they were incredibly gracious and welcoming.  We enjoyed some tea while I finished up the paperwork for check-in.

Sitting area when you enter.

Entering into the ryokan is literally like entering into a traditional Japanese home (OK, a rich person's traditional Japanese home).  The elegant owner (whose family has owned the ryokan for generations) welcomed us personally.  This is definitely not a place for people who want to party and let loose.  It however is perfect for those looking for peace and quiet and some good old-fashioned pampering.

At the front entrance were were asked to remove our shoes and provided outdoor slippers.  I'm not sure where they put our shoes, but they magically appeared when we were ready to leave...

Room

The rooms are designed in traditional Japanese style with tatami floors and sliding doors.  Everything is very plain and serene, and in tune with nature.  We were introduced to a lovely lady who escorted us into our room to show us the various amenities and to serve us tea (multiple times).

Upon entering, there is a small sitting area with a couch and a refreshment center with a mini-fridge.  You are expected to wear your outdoor slippers at this level.  But on the tatami level, we had to remove the outdoor slippers and wear socks (or go barefoot).  During the day there is a low table and seat cushions in the center of the room.  In one tiny corner, there was a beautiful built-in sitting area for one person - which would be perfect for writing letters or meditating in front of a small private zen garden.

Our private little zen garden with special cut-out "leaf" window.

I adored this little built-in nook.

Adjacent to the main room was the bathroom with a vanity area and a Japanese style shower and separate tub - already filled to the brim with hot spring water.  I believe traditionally guests are expected to enjoy the baths several times a day - since the whole point of coming to the ryokan is to relax and bathe.  The water is probably hotter than most Western spas, but I loved it!  (Tip - I believe proper etiquette requires that you shower first before getting into the bath.  The bath is meant for relaxation, not for cleaning.)  The Japanese toiletries, creams and gels were all lovely - but I wasn't positive that I was using them correctly.

I absolutely loved the room.  To be honest, it takes a little bit of getting used to, but it was such an amazing experience - literally like going back into time.  

At bedtime - after they serve an amazing multi-course kaiseki meal, a group of ladies come into the room to store the table and set out the bedding.  I was concerned that sleeping on the floor would be uncomfortable but it was like sleeping on a puffy cloud.  Absolutely divine.

Daytime sitting area.

Nighttime transformation!

Location

The inn is located on a relatively quiet street but it's a convenient walking distance to the Nishiki Market (an amazing outdoor food market) and several subway stops.  I am not that familiar with Kyoto, but I would definitely recommend staying here or in the nearby vicinity for a first-timer in Kyoto (instead of the Kyoto Brighton Hotel which was a bit off the beaten track).

Service

The service was impeccable.  Formal yet welcoming.  It's a bit odd to have a room attendant who literally is constantly serving you different tea courses, etc.  She would knock very quietly and wait for us to say something.  I have a horrible feeling that we probably kept her waiting on many occasions because we didn't hear her... 

Dinner and breakfast service was like watching a beautiful ritual.  Words can't really describe the intricate and detailed manner in which she served each course.  

Amenities

 I think the key amenity is the private hot springs bath.  The tub was large enough for two people but my husband and I would take turns going in and out throughout the evening (before and after dinner).  It was fantastic.  I wish I could transport this magical bath home.

The "public" bath.

There is a larger "public" bath that could be reserved, but unfortunately we didn't try it.  I did take a peek at it when we were leaving the hotel, and it's absolutely lovely.  Like a postcard.

Food

The full room price includes both breakfast and dinner for two people.  The dinner was a formal kaiseki meal with several courses showcasing the seasonal ingredients of Kyoto.  Not only was everything beautifully and thoughtfully presented, but it was also delicious.  (I've had bland kaiseki meals that looked better than they tasted, but luckily this was not the case here.)  

We also ordered a sake sampler, and it was so good!  And as a bonus the sake was served in an array of lovely hand-blown glass cups.

For breakfast you could choose a Western or Japanese style breakfast.  We opted for Japanese of course, and it was incredibly filling and tasty.  Amusingly enough, they seemed confused when we asked for coffee with our Japanese breakfast.  I had to confirm with 2 different people before they brought it.  They seemed very worried because it would cost extra, but I can't be without my morning coffee!  

In addition to the food, we probably had 7 different courses of tea.  I don't think I've ever had more tea in my life in the course of a day.  It's too bad I'm not really a tea connoisseur...

Check-Out

 We were a bit bummed to be leaving the lovely ryokan.  As we left, the owner and the staff all came out to take pictures for us and to say good bye to us.  The whole experience felt incredibly special and they obviously had immense pride in their establishment.  

Cost 

The cost for the room, the dinner and the breakfast for 2 people for one evening was about $670.  That is not cheap but considering you are getting two amazing multi-course meals, it actually is well worth the price. 

Final Note

It seemed anytime I mentioned to a local in Kyoto that we were staying at Hiiragiya Ryokan, their eyes would get very wistful and they would tell me that it was considered one of the best ryokans in the country.  The hotel is obviously well-regarded in Japan and for good reason.