moroccan hammam review

Earlier this year, I had the (mis)fortune of experiencing a full body scrub at a public hammam (bathhouse) in Marrakesh. Hammam is very similar to the better known Turkish bath or Korean spa, in which one essentially gets naked, steamed and scrubbed to emerge with glowing soft skin. Whether in the Far East or the Middle East (or in this case, North Africa), this bathing ritual at a hammam is both a communal and common cultural experience. It’s not like going to an American or European spa, an occasional luxurious indulgence where one is pampered and soothed in privacy.

savon noir

travel zen on tuesday - panda & dentite in chengdu, china

travel zen on tuesday - el castillo

El Castillo in Chichen Itza, Cancun, Mexico

neighborhood guide- favorite lunch spots (koreatown & surroundings) p-y

Continuing on my list from last week, here are my favorite lunch spots P-Y:

Papa Cristo's - Ktown adjacent (Olympic)
2777 W. Pico, Los Angeles (cross Normandie)

This Greek market serves up the best gyro in town. Gyro consists of grounded lamb, beef or chicken slow roasted on vertical pit served with onion, tomatoes, tzatziki (yogart) sauce wrapped up in soft pita bread. Most sandwiches under $10.









Closed Mondays. Parking lot back entrance leads into the market.

neighborhood guide- favorite lunch spots (koreatown & surrounds) a-l

I am fortunate to work around Koreatown and within 15 minute drive time to a vast array of quick service, budget-friendly (typically around $10) but most importantly yummy lunch spots. Here are some of my favorites in alphabetically order (A-L):

Alcove Cafe- Los Feliz
1929 Hilhurst Ave, Los Angeles

Whenever I want a break from the dreary office environment, I escape to Alcove Cafe. Sitting under a shade outside surrounded by other diners who don't dress like they hold a regular office job and an occasional C-list celebrity makes me feel like I truly got away. The typical American cafe fare of sandwiches, brunch items and salads are good but I love the desserts the most. I usually alternate between the turkey pesto panino and shrimp salad but everything is good.

There's valet parking in front; plenty of street parking available in streets adjacent to Hilhurst. As long as you avoid coming exactly at noon, I've never had to wait for a table. Most meals are in $10-20 range.

marrakesh - highlights

Marrakesh has a lot more to offer than its world-famous souqs and Djemma el-Fna. It's an impressive imperial city that has a well developed tourism industry while holding onto traditional culture.  Here are my top 6 must-see tourists spots.

• Medersa Ben Youssef- medieval theological school with stunning stucco and woodwork. Famous for its courtyard with a reflecting pool and 2nd floor rooms overlooking it. The finely detailed craftsmanship on display is truly remarkable.
  

travel zen on tuesday - street scene in lhasa, tibet

This picture was taken in fall of 2007 before the March 2008 uprising and subsequent crackdown.

restaurant review: petit trois

Recently, Martinikitty and I with a 3rd friend (not Sazy Rock who was on a road trip) tried new hot spot (opened 7/24) Petit Trois in Hollywood. We showed up early (5:15!) on a Wednesday evening to grab three coveted bar stools.

Before diving into the food and ambiance, here's the 411 you should be aware before going to Petit Trois:

overnight camping & camel trekking in the sahara desert (erg chebbi)

In February 2014, Sazy Rock and I spent two wondrous days camel trekking and two fun nights camping in Berber tents in Erg Chebbi, Sahara Desert.

Transportation
We took an 10-hr overnight Supratours direct bus from Fes to Merzouga, a little desert hamlet that is the gateway to Erg Chebbi (one of two giant sand dunes located on the Moroccan side of the Sahara Desert). The bus left at 8:45pm (although original departure time was supposed to be 9pm).  Bus was a typical "luxury" travel coach with reclining seats and a/c. We had seats just behind the driver and between the blaring radio and headlights from on-coming traffic, it was difficult to get any rest. In the middle of the night, there's a "lunch" break of 45 minutes. Even though it was 2am, the bus stop had an open restaurant and clean restrooms for use.

We arrived early around 5:00am, 2 hours ahead of schedule.  Somehow, the owner of the auberge Le Petite Prince (the overnight camping/camel trekking outfit we hired) was aware of this fact and came out to collect us at the bus stop. If he hadn't come, we would have had no way to get in touch via phone (had no phone number nor access to a phone) or a way to find it on our own with an address!

Other tourists arrive at Merzouga via rental car or taxi service. For the length of the drive, it really is best to take the Supratours bus. It is economical, efficient, convenient and clean.

things to do in fes, morocco

The magnificent imperial city of Fes and surroundings are must-visit sites when planning a trip to Morocco. Sazy Rock and I spent four days in Fes to kick off our Moroccan adventure. Although we had two days of guided tours, the remainder of our time was spent getting lost in the medina's maze and taking in the sights, sounds, smell and taste of the medieval city that still pulses with an heartbeat of a begone time. Watching middle-aged men going about their daily business dressed in djellaba, long loose fitting outer role with attached pointy hood, or women in hijab (headscarf) or burqa (full body and face covering) going about their grocery shopping, let you know this is a place where locals still work and live their traditional way of life and not just another commercialized tourist spot where they dress traditionally for the benefit of tourists.

Day tour of Medina (el-Bali or Old Fes)

Old Fes is a medieval city with tall walls creating a labyrinth of narrow alleyways only wide enough for a donkey cart and occasional motorcycle.  Due to this fact, you can escape the noise and pollution of modern vehicles and better immerse yourself in the ancient way of life. Some highlights include:

• Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate) - the most famous of the gates that guard the medina and a very convenient location to be dropped off by taxi and for a representative from your dar or riad to come greet you. Exterior is blue for the color of Fes, and interior is green for the color of Islam.

• Souqs and craft guilds-  check out the spice, henna, brassmaker, shoemakers and carpenters souqs for fun shopping and wonderful picture taking opportunities.
• Medersa Bou Inania & Water Clock - a theological college and mosque, it is an excellent example of Merenid architecture with every surface decorated with colorful geometric zellij mosaic tilework, intricately carved plaster stucco and wood. It is one of few religious sites open to non-Muslims so don't miss out on the opportunity to explore this gem.
  
• Kairaouine Mosque - the second largest and perhaps the holiest in Morocco. It's attached university may be the world's oldest. It is not open to non-Muslims but its splendor may be peaked at from its open main gate and its distinct cluster of green tile rooftops can be picked out from any aerial view of Fes. 
  
• Tanneries - the most famous site in Fes. The pungent smell will tell you when you are close. Most leather shops will allow you rooftop access for a birds-eye view in exchange for a token fee or purchase of their wares. For a small fee (10MAD), the tanners will also allow you onto the factory grounds.

travel zen on tuesday - hong kong @ nite

eating and shopping in morocco

Morocco is a shopper's paradise. Their artistry is superb and geometric and abstract tribal designs work very well with modern aesthetics. Although you can buy many Moroccan items in the States, nothing beats the rush you will get when getting a deal on a purchase and as a bonus it will serve as a wonderful reminder of your time in Morocco. And their food isn't half bad either.

Shopping

• Leather slippers aka babouches. Still commonly worn by locals, these unique and portable items make excellent souvenirs.  They come in a variety of colors and are super soft- especially when made from goat or camel skin. Sazy Rock and I had a wonderful mini-adventure with a cobbler in Marrakesh who insisted we come up to his attic workshop - not advisable for a solo traveler!- while he custom-made several pairs of infant slippers while we watched. 60-200MAD.
• Blue ceramics. Decorative plates or tiles; be sure to have the fragile goods properly wrapped for transport back home. 
  

survival tips for djemaa el-fna, marrakesh

The heart of Marrakesh is the (in)famous Djemaa el-Fna, a large open public square that takes a life of its own when the sun goes down.

Djemaa el-Fna alive with lights, sounds and smell.

Food Stalls

Good rule of thumb is to eat where the crowd eats at, especially the local crowd. Although the square is very touristy, many local Moroccans also come to partake in the excellent and cheap food offerings here. I recommend:

# 94 is filled with local men,
we got some raised eyebrows when we squeezed in

stall #98

african safari- luxury itinerary on an economical budget

In Spring of 2012, I took my dream vacation to Africa- Victoria Falls, Chobe National Park, Okavango Delta, and Cape Town- with an added bonus trip to Paris.  Here was my itinerary:

Day 1- Travel day

• 12 hr flight from LAX (LA) to LHR (Heathrow)

Day 2- Travel day

• 8 hour layover at LHR; check-in at Yotel in T4
• 12 hr flight from LHR to Johannesburg, SA (JNB)

travel zen tuesday- ait ben haddou, morocco

Ksar at Ait Ben Haddou, Morocco

4th of july recipes - easy to do patriotic dessert & drink

Happy 4th of July! Here's my last minute, easy-to-do dessert or drink recipes for holiday picnic or bbq.

Dessert: 4th of July Trifle

Ingredients:

• 1 Cool Whip (8 oz.)
• 1 vanilla pudding (or powder substitute)
• 1 Angle food cake, cubed
• 3 cups of blueberries
• 3 cups of strawberries, sliced (or whole raspberries)  

Directions:

• Fold in pudding into Cool Whip in a bowl
• In a large trifle bowl (or individual clear cups), evenly layer each ingredient: cubed angel food cake, Cool Whip mixture, strawberries, and blueberries
• Repeat layers as desired
• Garnish with mix of blueberries and strawberries
• Chill until ready serve; approximately 10 servings

Sidenote- The difference between a parfait and a trifle is the former contains ice cream and latter cake.

guide to eating noodles in koreatown(la)

There are three representative noodle meals (in my opinion) that anyone who wants familiarity with Korean cuisine or Koreatown food scene needs to be aware of: jajangmyeon, black bean noodles; kalgooksoo, knife-cut noodles; and mul naengmyeon, cold soup noodles.

Jajangmyeon
Technically, jajangmyeon is not a Korean dish. It's Chinese in that it's typically sold in Chinese restaurants run by ethnic Chinese who cater to Korean clientele but it cannot be found in other Chinese restaurants. The prevalence and popularity of jajangmyeon in Korea is undisputed. Having jajangmyeon for lunch in Korea is equivalent to having a burger for lunch in America. The sauce is unique in its black color and is made from dark soybean paste. The sauce is stir-fried with onions, ground meat (pork or beef typically) and smattering of other vegetables and sometimes topped with julienned cucumbers. The noodle is thick tubular shape like a fatter spaghetti and made from white wheat flour. Traditionally pulled by hand in a theatrically repetitive stretching and twisting motion, today restaurants primarily rely on machines to pull this ever popular noodle. Sidenote: In Korea, April 14th is called Black Day and singles gather to commiserate their singledom by donning black color clothing and eating black foods e.g., jajangmyeon.

eating and drinking in koreatown- old school version

Big feature of Korean and Koreatown (Los Angeles neighborhood with general borders created by Olympic Blvd. to south, Vermont Ave. to east, 3rd St. to north and Crenshaw Blvd. to west) culture is drinking. Recently, the travelbits&bites crew gathered at one old school establishment, Dan Sung San, for a little eating and drinking.

Location- Northwest corner of 6th and S. Berendo St. (3317 W 6th St, Los Angeles) inside a strip-mall. There is no English signage but you may locate it by its address and the outside billboard of two men (Kim Dae Jung, former S. Korean President, and Kim Jong Il, dead dictator of N. Korea) facing each other with Korea flag in the middle. Cheap valet parking is available onsite.

Ambiance- This place is a pojangmacha, a divy Korean drink/food establishment.  Dimly lit inside, the walls and furniture are well worn and covered in graffiti. They play old school Korean pop and have no flat screen TV's. What significance the billboard of Kim Dae Jung with Kim Jong Il promoting Korean reunification and the name Dan Sung San, which means "porno" in Korean, have with the food or drink served is beyond me. But these features do add to the distinct character of the establishment. Although there are no smoking signs, I have sat next to smokers indoors.

tom bihn aeronaut carry-on luggage and eaglecreek packing cubes review

This is my Goldilocks story with luggage, not beds. In my twenties (I blame naivety and vigor of youth), I never left for an international trip without an 28 in. check-in bag, an 22 in. wheeled carry-on bag and a backpack. I once went on an 35 day, 13 city Contiki European tour with that much luggage. That meant I had to hull all that bulk and weight around every other day as we moved on to the next destination. Then I had an “ah-ha” moment and tried three weeks in China with only one 22 in. wheeled carry-on bag and a backpack. Despite wild temperature swings from freezing in Snow Jade Mountain to sticky humidity in Hong Kong, I survived on what I carried. Over the years, I’ve experimented with Tumi Alpha wheeled carry-on bag, framed backpack with wheels, wheeled dufflebag and finally found the carry-on that just fits me right: Tom Bihn Aeronaut.

Aeronaut is the best for the type of travelling I’m interested in: 2-3 week multi-city international trips. It’s 22 inches long and is extremely durable yet light weight at only 2 lb 7 oz. I don’t need to tell you that most American airlines charge for checked luggage (international trips typically exempt). Also many European budget airlines like Ryanair and easyjet charge extra 25E-50E for one checked bag. And if you are afraid of losing your luggage you will not want to check luggage anyway. Carry-on size restriction is typically 22 inches in height. To add to complications, many international airlines- Singapore, Virgin Atlantic to name a few- limit in-cabin luggage weight to 8kg (18 lb),10 kg (22 lbs) respectively! Although I had proper size carry-on, I was once forced to check luggage by Virgin Atlantic under this unreasonable weight rule on the start of a safari trip. I almost missed my connection to Botswana via Johannesburg (there’s only one flight a day) when delays in air and customs left me with little time to recollect my luggage for the next leg. I had a panic attack and contemplated traveling for next 10 days with just the clothes on my back. After that terrible experience, I vowed never again to be forced to check luggage at the start of my travel (return home is ok). Now 22 in. size bag under 18 lb is the goal for start of each trip. Aeronaut has well padded shoulder straps and side handles and no wheels nor re-enforced frame which typically add significant weight and bulk. I rather carry extra clothes than waste precious weight allowance on the luggage itself. And without any hard frame or wheels it’s squishable, if needed, as I found on a recent easyjet flight to Morocco. Others who couldn't cram their bags into the crowded overhead compartment due to the wheels were forced to gate-check their bags. And did I mention it is super durable and water-resistant? And on a superficial note, it comes in awesome color combinations.

itinerary, costs and misadventures in yucatan: dentite's 24 hr roadtrip to chichen itza, valladolid and ek balam

Secrets Maroma

So with much preparation and only a 24-hour period to get into, spend in, and get out of Chichen Itza, how much sight-seeing and unexpected "adventure" can one get into? A lot.

This was the original 24-hour proposed itinerary:

5:30pm - Land at Cancun airport and pre-arranged pickup by rental service.

8:00pm - Arrive at Mayaland Hotel (210 km drive from airport) at entrance of Chichen Itza.

8:00am - Enter Chichen Itza for a guided tour.

12pm - Check-out at Mayaland Hotel and drive to nearby cenotes (fresh water sinkholes).

3pm - Drive back to Cancun airport for car drop off by 5pm.

5pm - Pickup by airport shuttle to final destination: Secrets Maroma in Playa del Carmen.

What actually happened:

5 pm - Our plane landed at Cancun airport and we deplaned with much excitement. Including going through immigration, money exchange and baggage claim, it took us only 15 minutes from the time the plane landed to exit the airport. Prior to our trip, friends warned us not to speak to or go with anyone who did not have a sign with our name (easyway car rental greeter) at the terminal because we could be waylaid with timeshares sales pitches. Sure enough, while trying to find our greeter, inside and outside the terminal, other greeters and drivers swamped us to try to gain our business and our attention. We politely refused people’s offer of assistance. After looking for our greeter at the airport exit for 30 minutes and trying hard to ignore that inevitable panic feeling, a rep for a competing company told us that someone on the other side of the terminal gate was holding a sign with our name. It turned out the easyway greeter was waiting at the terminal entrance, not the exit, and thus not visible from where we exited. We felt relieved to have been given genuine assistance and not led astray.