video: how to communicate in berber - the basics

It'a always a good thing to learn a few phrases when traveling to a different country. If you are traveling to Morocco, below is a short video that teaches you how to communicate basic words in Berber, courtesy of my new friend, Sayid. Enjoy!

hotel review: hotel continental in tangier

Hotel Continental view from the ferry terminal.

Although many people opt not to spend the night in Tangier and either head back to Spain or move on to other parts of Morocco, I opted to stay one night at the Hotel Continental. I used booking.com to reserve a room.

video: under the stars with the berbers in the sand dunes of morocco

If you ever wondered what it's like to spend the night under the stars surrounded by massive sand dunes in Morocco with the Berbers, check out the video below:

moroccan hammam review

Earlier this year, I had the (mis)fortune of experiencing a full body scrub at a public hammam (bathhouse) in Marrakesh. Hammam is very similar to the better known Turkish bath or Korean spa, in which one essentially gets naked, steamed and scrubbed to emerge with glowing soft skin. Whether in the Far East or the Middle East (or in this case, North Africa), this bathing ritual at a hammam is both a communal and common cultural experience. It’s not like going to an American or European spa, an occasional luxurious indulgence where one is pampered and soothed in privacy.

savon noir

how to take the ferry between spain and morocco

View of the sun setting over Southern Spain from Tangier.

Given that Tarifa, Spain and Tanger (the Moroccan spelling for Tangier), Morocco are only about an hour (via fast ferry) from each other, it's really easy to visit both countries without spending a ton of money on airfare. Note, however, that if the water is too choppy, the officials at Tarifa and Tanger could shut down their respective ports. In that case, you will have to take a slightly longer ferry ride between Algeciras in Spain and Tanger Med in Morocco. 

That being said, I took the ferry between both countries and found it a fairly easy and cheap way to visit both countries. I hope this post will assist you in your next ferry journey between these two countries.

travel zen on tuesday - marrakesh, morocco

Where is this place?

how to travel by train in morocco

Traveling by train in Morocco is fairly easy. It is a relatively cheap and easy way to get around the country.

The Marrakech train station.

Below are helpful notes to get you through train travel around this beautiful country.

marrakesh - highlights

Marrakesh has a lot more to offer than its world-famous souqs and Djemma el-Fna. It's an impressive imperial city that has a well developed tourism industry while holding onto traditional culture.  Here are my top 6 must-see tourists spots.

• Medersa Ben Youssef- medieval theological school with stunning stucco and woodwork. Famous for its courtyard with a reflecting pool and 2nd floor rooms overlooking it. The finely detailed craftsmanship on display is truly remarkable.
  

overnight camping & camel trekking in the sahara desert (erg chebbi)

In February 2014, Sazy Rock and I spent two wondrous days camel trekking and two fun nights camping in Berber tents in Erg Chebbi, Sahara Desert.

Transportation
We took an 10-hr overnight Supratours direct bus from Fes to Merzouga, a little desert hamlet that is the gateway to Erg Chebbi (one of two giant sand dunes located on the Moroccan side of the Sahara Desert). The bus left at 8:45pm (although original departure time was supposed to be 9pm).  Bus was a typical "luxury" travel coach with reclining seats and a/c. We had seats just behind the driver and between the blaring radio and headlights from on-coming traffic, it was difficult to get any rest. In the middle of the night, there's a "lunch" break of 45 minutes. Even though it was 2am, the bus stop had an open restaurant and clean restrooms for use.

We arrived early around 5:00am, 2 hours ahead of schedule.  Somehow, the owner of the auberge Le Petite Prince (the overnight camping/camel trekking outfit we hired) was aware of this fact and came out to collect us at the bus stop. If he hadn't come, we would have had no way to get in touch via phone (had no phone number nor access to a phone) or a way to find it on our own with an address!

Other tourists arrive at Merzouga via rental car or taxi service. For the length of the drive, it really is best to take the Supratours bus. It is economical, efficient, convenient and clean.

things to do in fes, morocco

The magnificent imperial city of Fes and surroundings are must-visit sites when planning a trip to Morocco. Sazy Rock and I spent four days in Fes to kick off our Moroccan adventure. Although we had two days of guided tours, the remainder of our time was spent getting lost in the medina's maze and taking in the sights, sounds, smell and taste of the medieval city that still pulses with an heartbeat of a begone time. Watching middle-aged men going about their daily business dressed in djellaba, long loose fitting outer role with attached pointy hood, or women in hijab (headscarf) or burqa (full body and face covering) going about their grocery shopping, let you know this is a place where locals still work and live their traditional way of life and not just another commercialized tourist spot where they dress traditionally for the benefit of tourists.

Day tour of Medina (el-Bali or Old Fes)

Old Fes is a medieval city with tall walls creating a labyrinth of narrow alleyways only wide enough for a donkey cart and occasional motorcycle.  Due to this fact, you can escape the noise and pollution of modern vehicles and better immerse yourself in the ancient way of life. Some highlights include:

• Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate) - the most famous of the gates that guard the medina and a very convenient location to be dropped off by taxi and for a representative from your dar or riad to come greet you. Exterior is blue for the color of Fes, and interior is green for the color of Islam.

• Souqs and craft guilds-  check out the spice, henna, brassmaker, shoemakers and carpenters souqs for fun shopping and wonderful picture taking opportunities.
• Medersa Bou Inania & Water Clock - a theological college and mosque, it is an excellent example of Merenid architecture with every surface decorated with colorful geometric zellij mosaic tilework, intricately carved plaster stucco and wood. It is one of few religious sites open to non-Muslims so don't miss out on the opportunity to explore this gem.
  
• Kairaouine Mosque - the second largest and perhaps the holiest in Morocco. It's attached university may be the world's oldest. It is not open to non-Muslims but its splendor may be peaked at from its open main gate and its distinct cluster of green tile rooftops can be picked out from any aerial view of Fes. 
  
• Tanneries - the most famous site in Fes. The pungent smell will tell you when you are close. Most leather shops will allow you rooftop access for a birds-eye view in exchange for a token fee or purchase of their wares. For a small fee (10MAD), the tanners will also allow you onto the factory grounds.

sazy rock's top 10 best street food dishes (to date) around the world

For me, there is nothing more satisfying than traveling to a new place and falling in love with the food. Let's face it, the way to this gal's heart is through her tummy (and sometimes, liver). When I look back on my travels, I often drool when I remember all the food I ate.

Last week, I listed my top 10 restaurant dishes.  This week, I'm sharing my top 10 favorite street food dishes I've encountered while traveling.  I'm not sharing those found in the United States because that's where I live (although, I particularly like this taco truck in Los Angeles called, Mariscos Jaliscos, that serves the most delicious shrimp taco I have ever tasted).

So far, these are my top street food dishes I've encountered while traveling listed in no particular order.

1.  Taiwanese sausage in Taipei, Taiwan.

I found all sorts of tasty food in the Taipei night markets. But, the simple Taiwanese sausage caught my eye, nose, and taste buds. My first bite snapped the casing and immediately released slightly sweet juices of the cooked ground pork. While I liked eating the sausage by itself, dipping it in garlic sauce added another layer of flavor.

Taiwanese sausage.

eating and shopping in morocco

Morocco is a shopper's paradise. Their artistry is superb and geometric and abstract tribal designs work very well with modern aesthetics. Although you can buy many Moroccan items in the States, nothing beats the rush you will get when getting a deal on a purchase and as a bonus it will serve as a wonderful reminder of your time in Morocco. And their food isn't half bad either.

Shopping

• Leather slippers aka babouches. Still commonly worn by locals, these unique and portable items make excellent souvenirs.  They come in a variety of colors and are super soft- especially when made from goat or camel skin. Sazy Rock and I had a wonderful mini-adventure with a cobbler in Marrakesh who insisted we come up to his attic workshop - not advisable for a solo traveler!- while he custom-made several pairs of infant slippers while we watched. 60-200MAD.
• Blue ceramics. Decorative plates or tiles; be sure to have the fragile goods properly wrapped for transport back home. 
  

survival tips for djemaa el-fna, marrakesh

The heart of Marrakesh is the (in)famous Djemaa el-Fna, a large open public square that takes a life of its own when the sun goes down.

Djemaa el-Fna alive with lights, sounds and smell.

Food Stalls

Good rule of thumb is to eat where the crowd eats at, especially the local crowd. Although the square is very touristy, many local Moroccans also come to partake in the excellent and cheap food offerings here. I recommend:

# 94 is filled with local men,
we got some raised eyebrows when we squeezed in

stall #98

travel zen tuesday- ait ben haddou, morocco

Ksar at Ait Ben Haddou, Morocco

cost breakdown on how i travelled for two amazing weeks in morocco under $1200 (excluding shopping)

The night market at Jemaa El Fna.

I recently visited Fes, Meknes, Merzouga, Ouarzazate and Marrakech in Morocco over a two week period. This was a budget trip and technically I did carry a backpack, but I wouldn’t label it as a backpacking trip. True backpackers would be offended, I think. I stayed in very centrally located and comfortable bed and breakfast lodgings where I (and my travel companion, sazy rock) had a private room and bathroom. We didn’t skimp on other comforts or conveniences when warranted. Although we bought food from street food vendors, we also ate at pricier tourist spots (for access to their bathrooms and willingness to let us linger and rest). Also, while we walked a lot, we didn't shy away from hiring private taxis and guides. We did inter-city travel via Supratours bus, a luxury coach service connecting areas between train routes, because internal travel in Morocco is convenient and affordable.