day 12 in japan: kyoto (golden pavillion, lots of temples, bamboo forest and meeting kinji nakamura-san)

A "wishing well" near the Golden Pavillion.

(Kyoto, Japan).  Today was our main "tourist" day in Kyoto where we planned to visit a large number of the key attractions in Kyoto with a private guide.  I ended up using the same company I used in Tokyo  (www.chrisrowthorn.com).  The reviews were good and we were pleased with our guide in Tokyo despite our tour getting partially rained out.  

For the Kyoto full-day tour, I had asked if we could customize slightly because I wanted to meet up with a Japanese artist (Kinji Nakamura-san) whom I met over 9 years ago in the Bamboo Forest.  He was selling postcards and didn't speak much english but I was immediately drawn to his beautiful artworks.  I had tried writing him previously to purchase some original pieces, but communication was difficult.  I was hoping our guide could not only facilitate the meeting, but also act as an interpreter.  The guide Sato-san promptly met us in our hotel lobby at 9am and he called the artist to schedule an afternoon meeting.  (For the entire story of how I hunted down this artist to purchase some of his beautiful artwork, please go here.)

Unlike our tour in Tokyo where we could take advantage of the convenient subway system, we ended up taking taxis to all the different sites.  It seemed cheaper than taxis in Tokyo but was definitely more expensive than taking the subway.  But it was faster and more convenient, especially since it started raining throughout the day.

Visually stunning Golden Pavillion.

It is said that some ashes of Buddha are actually stored at the tip of the pavillion.

Our first stop was the Golden Pavillion (Kinkakuji-temple), which was gorgeous.  The surrounding grounds were peaceful and beautiful.  Most tourists simply rush through them to get pictures of the pavillion which is a bit of a shame.  

There's a small touristy area where they sell souvenirs and tasty treats in the temple surroundings.

Matcha (green tea) mochi balls.

Then we visited the zen temple - Ryoani-mae.   I have to admit I don't know enough about the philosophy to truly appreciate what was before me.  However, the spacing and surroundings do make one want to sit and contemplate quietly, even with all the picture taking crowds.

The zen garden.

A less frequented area near the zen temple - see the gardener on the right side?

We hopped into another taxi to take the drive to the Arayashimaya area which is even more lovely and lush, if that can be believed.  Here we walked through the enchanting Bamboo Forest before heading to the main street where there are many shops and restaurants.  Before lunch, we had to sample the soy donuts - which were quite tasty and light.  Instead of curbing our appetites, it actually made us realize how hungry we were.

The incredibly peaceful Bamboo Forest.

Store selling plum wine.

Our guide took us to a soba restaurant with amazing views of the bridge and river.  Soba is traditionally served with tempura - and the combination was well balanced.  My husband and I tried 2 different combinations, along with some warm sake.

Delicious soba lunch!

Our view at lunch.

Gorgeous bridge.

After lunch, we walked through the town a little more and then through the Tenryuji Temple, before going to the meeting point with the artist.  

Fall colors at the Tenryuji Temple.

At first I was concerned I wouldn't recognize him, but I spotted and recognized him immediately.  A spry, wiry man walking towards us - he looked almost the same as he did when I met him about a decade ago.  Just a touch older, but as energetic as ever.  He spoke a little bit of english and seemed excited to meet me again.  I'm guessing he was amused that I searched for him for year to buy some work.

Kinji Nakamura-san and me in his apartment.

He told our guide that he lived very close by and took us to his apartment.  Like most traditional Japanese people, he was most gracious and gifted me a book of all of his postcards and small painting.  Then my husband and I perused through his work and ended up picking 2 paintings.  He insisted that he would deliver them to our hotel the next day.  

After the lovely visit with Nakamura-san, I was satisfied but our guide insisted on giving us the full day we paid for, so he took us to Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine - which is famous for its rows and rows of red columns.  The temple seemed to be dedicated to the fox spirits.  Visually stunning.

One of hundreds of rows of red columns.

At first I thought the carton was litter, but it's actually a sake offering.

On our way back, we took the subway and our guide took us to a department store to buy an extra suitcase because we purchased too much stuff.  He was super helpful and nice.  I would definitely recommend using that company.  (For the 8-hour day, the private tour was approximately $350, gratuity not required).

Exhausted, we chose a random and touristy place to grab a simple dinner near the train station and it was one of our rare mediocre meals in Japan.  Because we were so disappointed, we of course had to stop by Family Mart for more snacks!

Our "midnight snack".

At this point, we've been averaging 8 miles of walking a day and my body was definitely starting to feel major fatigue.  Fortunately we were checking into our ryokan (hot springs hotel) tomorrow and we had little on the agenda other than a visit to the Yamazaki distillery.  Can't wait!