Wednesday, March 16, 2016

day 9 in tokyo: searching for hakuhodo brushes, shopping on omotesando, tea at aoyama flower market and discovering harajuku gyoza lou

(Tokyo, Japan).  After multiple days on the go, I was looking forward to a day of leisure with no real plans other than buying some souvenirs.  We slept in and had a lovely breakfast at the Westin Hotel buffet.  After last night's kobe beef meal, I needed to be "healthier" and have some green juice.  But good intentions quickly flew out of the window when I got sidetracked by the mini french toast ... so tasty!


Someone told us these parades/festivals are quite common in Tokyo.


I had planned to nap after breakfast but unfortunately the housekeeper was cleaning our room so we decided to go out for a quick stroll around the hotel in the Ebisu area.  We ran into some sort of celebration or festival - there was lots of praying, drumming, chanting, etc.  Very cool even though we didn't understand what was happening.  During our stroll, my husband said he wanted to visit the Yamazaki Whiskey distillery when we get into Kyoto, but as usual he forgot that reservations were required.  Fortunately our concierge was able to get us in.  (Tip - if anyone wants to visit the Yamazaki Whiskey distillery in Kyoto - remember to make reservations or you won't get to do the tour.)
 
So how did I miss this sign more than 10 times???

Since we had free time today, I decided to continue my search for hakuhodo makeup brushes.  I had thought they would be very easy to find since they are relatively famous brushes - however, I struck out at almost every department store.  I had heard they had a flagship shop near Omotesando so I set out in search.  Oddly enough my husband said he would accompany me - which turned out to be a good thing since it took me over an hour to find it based on the faulty directions I received.  At least we were lost together.  Several lovely Japanese people tried to help me, but to no avail.  I did ultimately find it and realized that I literally passed the shop (which was on the 3rd floor) 10 times!  During our run-around, I noticed a lot of New York / California eateries opening up in the area - Clinton St. Bakery (from New York), Blue Bottle Coffee (from Oakland, CA), Luke's Lobster Rolls (from New York), etc.  It's crazy how global everything is becoming.  Later on I heard Shake Shack was also opening up in Tokyo!
 
Blue Bottle in Tokyo!

But I digress... back at the Hakuhodo shop - when the elevator doors opened, we entered into a clean, pristine shop of white.  Everything was minimal - almost like a gallery - and the only things on display were makeup brushes.  The shop clerks were very helpful and spoke a little bit of English, but they were clearly nervous as I - once again - stomped around like a bulldog in a porcelain shop.  I ended up buying three brushes - they were really soft and well made.  In fact they are all handmade with the utmost skill.  However, they are kind of expensive and there's really no need to buy such expensive brushes.  It's not like I end up looking like Jessica Alba because of these brushes.  But regardless, I am really glad I got them, and everytime I use them, I remember my visit to Tokyo. 



Feeling very victorious we headed to the main Omotesando Street where there was a good mix of highend-luxury and boutique souvenir shops.  My poor husband had had enough of shopping just from my makeup brush adventure so he decided to head out to look for some other museums and/or antique book stores.  One of our tour guides had recommended Oriental Bazaar on Omotesando for quality Japanese souvenirs, so I headed over there first.  I'm so glad I took his advice - the items here were beautiful.  There were ceramics, silk purses, kimonos, stationery, towels, fans - all lovely and well-made.   After a big purchase, I decided to just take my time enjoying the cool window displays etc.  I was quite tempted by the Commes des Garcon T-shirts (which are a lot cheaper in Japan), but alas, I restrained myself. 



I was feeling rather exhausted again and I had read about a lovely flower and tea shop called Aoyama Flower Market.  I had seen it earlier when I was walking around and noticed a line to get into the cafe, but fortunately when I headed back over the line was gone.  The cafe is hidden inside the flower shop and it's absolutely lovely.  I ordered a tea and dessert set (rose jelly) and happily relaxed there for a bit while waiting for my husband. 
 
Totally adorable!

So pretty and yummy!


He arrived an hour later after purchasing a beautiful antique print.  It was so carefully wrapped and sealed that I didn't get to see it until we returned to the U.S. a week later.  After discussing our options, we decided to stay in the area and explore some more and pick a random place for dinner.  I went onto yelp and found a restaurant called Harajuku Gyoza Lou which seemed perfect for what we were looking for.  And in fact it was!  What a splendid find - we absolutely loved it!  (See review here)
 
I wish I could have gone on eating forever...


Anyways as we headed towards the restaurant we found more amazing boutiques and my husband got lured by the siren call of the Burton store.  I knew he would take forever there so I left him to check out the vintage shops nearby.  If I had known there were so many treasures in Japanese vintage stores, I would have done this earlier in my trip.  Now, aware and wary of the diminishing space in our luggage, I couldn't justify buying much more...  So I controlled myself and went back to find my husband, but he was still awash in a sea of indecision.  I left again to explore some more but I told him I didn't want to keep going in and out of the store because in Japan - the shop clerk have to bow to you when you enter and exit the shop.  I didn't want to be the jerk who kept going in and out repeatedly .. not that they care, but I felt very weird about it.
 
Fabulous vintage shop.
Finally my husband called me and said he was done, but he needed my passport for the tax free benefit.  I returned to the shop and sheepishly went past the bowing clerks again.  My husband insisted he had to buy new snowboots and a backpack because these were the "newest" things and they were not available in the U.S.  This coming from a man with at least 3 pairs of snowboots and 15 backpacks at home.  But who was I to deprive him of his joy?

Fed and happy, we returned to our hotel ... and yes, we had more snacks.
 
These were quite spicy .. and no, they did not go well with red wine.
Tomorrow was our last full day in Tokyo.  I can't believe we've already been traveling for 9 days!  And each day I find something new to love about Japan! 

Omotesando in the sunset - so pretty!

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