things to do in fes, morocco

The magnificent imperial city of Fes and surroundings are must-visit sites when planning a trip to Morocco. Sazy Rock and I spent four days in Fes to kick off our Moroccan adventure. Although we had two days of guided tours, the remainder of our time was spent getting lost in the medina's maze and taking in the sights, sounds, smell and taste of the medieval city that still pulses with an heartbeat of a begone time. Watching middle-aged men going about their daily business dressed in djellaba, long loose fitting outer role with attached pointy hood, or women in hijab (headscarf) or burqa (full body and face covering) going about their grocery shopping, let you know this is a place where locals still work and live their traditional way of life and not just another commercialized tourist spot where they dress traditionally for the benefit of tourists.

Day tour of Medina (el-Bali or Old Fes)

Old Fes is a medieval city with tall walls creating a labyrinth of narrow alleyways only wide enough for a donkey cart and occasional motorcycle.  Due to this fact, you can escape the noise and pollution of modern vehicles and better immerse yourself in the ancient way of life. Some highlights include:

• Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate) - the most famous of the gates that guard the medina and a very convenient location to be dropped off by taxi and for a representative from your dar or riad to come greet you. Exterior is blue for the color of Fes, and interior is green for the color of Islam.

• Souqs and craft guilds-  check out the spice, henna, brassmaker, shoemakers and carpenters souqs for fun shopping and wonderful picture taking opportunities.
• Medersa Bou Inania & Water Clock - a theological college and mosque, it is an excellent example of Merenid architecture with every surface decorated with colorful geometric zellij mosaic tilework, intricately carved plaster stucco and wood. It is one of few religious sites open to non-Muslims so don't miss out on the opportunity to explore this gem.
  
• Kairaouine Mosque - the second largest and perhaps the holiest in Morocco. It's attached university may be the world's oldest. It is not open to non-Muslims but its splendor may be peaked at from its open main gate and its distinct cluster of green tile rooftops can be picked out from any aerial view of Fes. 
  
• Tanneries - the most famous site in Fes. The pungent smell will tell you when you are close. Most leather shops will allow you rooftop access for a birds-eye view in exchange for a token fee or purchase of their wares. For a small fee (10MAD), the tanners will also allow you onto the factory grounds.

Tips: The medina is located in a crater, lowest point being the center and elevating up towards its many gates; so when lost, find the wider looking lane and walk up to find a gate. For first day orientation, hire an official guide through your dar or riad and avoid faux guides. All day (5 hrs) guide is 400MAD.

Exploring outside Medina

• Fes el-Jdid (New Fes or Villa Nouvelle) -outside the walls of the medina is New Fes, built by the French with wide boulevards and westernized buildings. Not as exotic as the medina, but it offers some decent modern restaurants and shopping.
• Bou Jeloud Gardens- a tranquil oasis from the heat and noise of the city; it's located just outside the medina and Palace.
  
• Mellah- the old Jewish quarters can be identified by their second floor balconies.
• Musee du Batha - 20th century built Hispano-Moorish palace turned museum.
• Merenid Tombs- offers the best aerial view of Fes.
  
  
  
• Imperial Palace- impressively large, but picture taking is prohibited and best done from a far with a zoom lens.

  

  Imperial Palace in Fes

Day trip to Meknes & Volubilis

Volubilis

Basilica

2000 year old Roman ruins of Volubilis is a must do side-trip from Fes. The highlight is the collection of floor mosaics that are in fantastic condition.

Tips: Hire a grand taxi (typically a late model Mercedes) for the day for 800MAD. One passenger should bring her passport for police check to leave Fes. Guides can be hired onsite but a good guide book can be a great substitute. 1-2 hours should be sufficient time to cover the area in leisure. Go early in the morning or close to dusk to avoid the tourist bus hordes.

Labors of Hercules

Aphrodite taking a Bath

Meknes
One of five imperial cities, Meknes is more intimate than Fes. Some highlights include:

Moulay Idriss (located between Meknes & Volubilis)

• Bab el-Mansour- huge and elaborately decorated city gate to Meknes facing Place el-Hedim.
  
• Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail - mosque and final resting place of Moulay Ismail, who moved the capital from Fes to Meknes in the 17th century. A rare opportunity for non-Muslims to enter into religious site, you may enter the sanctuary up to the annex. Iconic saffron yellow washed walls and intricately woodcarved front gate facade are some its most photographed features.

spice souq

• Souqs- check out the spice souq and live animal market just right of Place el-Hedim. 
• Dar Jamai Museum-18th century palace turned museum.
• Royal Granaries -beauty of high vaulted ceilings and huge symmetrical columns belies the former utilitarian use of this space.
  

General Tips:

• Like most of Morocco, Fes can be hot and humid. Keep that in mind when planning your activities and drink plenty of bottled water. 
• Most restaurants in the medina cater to tourists and will have western styled restrooms for patron's use. Although there are public restrooms, I was not brave enough to try one myself.
• Ask for directions from vendors you've done business with, i.e. after a purchase or from bank security guards or imperial police officers. 
• Use common sense and keep your wits about you and don't get lead astray by faux guides or vendors trying to lure you in. But do not act so defensively that you forget to enjoy yourself and your environs.
• Remember you are in a Muslim country and behave accordingly. Fes is more traditional than Marrakesh and women in particular should dress in loose covered clothing and try to avoid places, especially cafes, where only men have gathered. 
• Language doesn't seem much of an hindrance as many merchants speak English. However, basic French may be helpful in getting directions from strangers. 
• For Asian travelers, don't be too offended if touts yell out at you constantly with "japonese" and "konnichiwa." 
• Taking grand or petite taxis are not a problem; they can be easily hailed from street in New Fes and are affordable with use of meter. For an out of town trip or airport transfer, pre-arranged flat fee fare is recommended. 
• High walls of the medina create very dark alleyways at night but are typically well lit with lamps, but to be safe it would be best to walk out at night with a flashlight (we used the function on our iPhone).

Be sure to check out my earlier post on eating and shopping in Morocco. Sazy Rock and I spent many enjoyable hours doing both in Fes.