things to do in fes, morocco

The magnificent imperial city of Fes and surroundings are must-visit sites when planning a trip to Morocco. Sazy Rock and I spent four days in Fes to kick off our Moroccan adventure. Although we had two days of guided tours, the remainder of our time was spent getting lost in the medina's maze and taking in the sights, sounds, smell and taste of the medieval city that still pulses with an heartbeat of a begone time. Watching middle-aged men going about their daily business dressed in djellaba, long loose fitting outer role with attached pointy hood, or women in hijab (headscarf) or burqa (full body and face covering) going about their grocery shopping, let you know this is a place where locals still work and live their traditional way of life and not just another commercialized tourist spot where they dress traditionally for the benefit of tourists.

Day tour of Medina (el-Bali or Old Fes)

Old Fes is a medieval city with tall walls creating a labyrinth of narrow alleyways only wide enough for a donkey cart and occasional motorcycle.  Due to this fact, you can escape the noise and pollution of modern vehicles and better immerse yourself in the ancient way of life. Some highlights include:

• Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate) - the most famous of the gates that guard the medina and a very convenient location to be dropped off by taxi and for a representative from your dar or riad to come greet you. Exterior is blue for the color of Fes, and interior is green for the color of Islam.

• Souqs and craft guilds-  check out the spice, henna, brassmaker, shoemakers and carpenters souqs for fun shopping and wonderful picture taking opportunities.
• Medersa Bou Inania & Water Clock - a theological college and mosque, it is an excellent example of Merenid architecture with every surface decorated with colorful geometric zellij mosaic tilework, intricately carved plaster stucco and wood. It is one of few religious sites open to non-Muslims so don't miss out on the opportunity to explore this gem.
  
• Kairaouine Mosque - the second largest and perhaps the holiest in Morocco. It's attached university may be the world's oldest. It is not open to non-Muslims but its splendor may be peaked at from its open main gate and its distinct cluster of green tile rooftops can be picked out from any aerial view of Fes. 
  
• Tanneries - the most famous site in Fes. The pungent smell will tell you when you are close. Most leather shops will allow you rooftop access for a birds-eye view in exchange for a token fee or purchase of their wares. For a small fee (10MAD), the tanners will also allow you onto the factory grounds.